Serrania de Ronda – 1 – 7 February 2024
Leaving the bustling Costa del Sol far behind, we spent the week on a literal avian high, exploring the wide-ranging and varied habitats of the Natural and National Parks of the Serrania de Ronda.
It´s always hard to pick the best highlights from such an action-packed trip – there were certainly many!
Dramatic limestone crags, softened by a haze of almond blossom, yielded Black Wheatear, Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Petronia, Black Redstart, Red-billed Chough, Golden and Bonelli´s Eagle, and the hulking form of a Eurasian Black Vulture among dozens of swirling Griffon Vultures.
On spring-fed freshwater ponds, whose contents read like a most-wanted of Spanish wildfowl, we delighted in some glorious views of White-headed Duck, Black-necked Grebe, Red-crested Pochard, Critically Endangered Marbled Ducks and more!
On areas of sensitively-managed farmland, Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Little Bustards and a whopping 79 Great Bustards shone out against a delightful backdrop of farmland goodies including Iberian Grey Shrike, Calandra, Thekla´s and Crested Lark, Zitting Cisticola, gorgeous Black-winged Kites and flocks of hundreds of Common Cranes.
Many calories were burnt in excitement, but it was sure nobody would go hungry on this trip, with cordon bleu-trained chef Iván on the case providing stunning 3-course meals every evening in our charming characterful hotel, and the “picnic fairies” busy each day sourcing and preparing sustainable local produce and freshly-baked bread for our sustenance!
Great memories, great laughs and EPIC birding!
Day 1 Thursday 1 February
Simon picked the group up from Málaga airport and we were soon heading out of the city, away from the bustling Costa del Sol and up into the mountains of the Serranía de Ronda. Climbing over 1000m, ears were soon popping as spectacular views down towards The Straits of Gibraltar unfolded before us!
We met with Niki at the Sierra de las Nieves – Spain´s newest National Park, featuring outstanding limestone geology and a unique high-altitude Mediterranean flora community. Here we enjoyed our welcome picnic together, today as every day tucking into fresh local bread, olives and salads, as well as delicious local cheeses, specially selected for their conservation value. It was so good a Rock Bunting came to check it out from a nearby endemic Spanish Fir (Abies pinsapo) tree!
We headed out on a stroll to explore the area, immediately spotting an Iberian Grey Shrike perched high on a hawthorn bush. Amongst a group of a couple of dozen Griffon Vultures, we picked out a Golden Eagle soaring! Among shrubby stunted growth of Holm and Gall Oaks, we picked out several Woodlarks, Mistle Thrush and more Rock Buntings. Common Firecrest and Short-toed Treecreeper sang.
Next we headed on through the craggy moonscape towards our accommodation, making birding stops along the way of course! On the road through the Genal Valley, which would be our local patch, we were thrilled to pick up our first Black Wheatears! A Thekla´s Lark showed well, as did one of several Dartford Warblers – with some patience!
A Rock Sparrow perched briefly on a boulder and we could see Red-billed Choughs swooping around a distant crag. Another Golden Eagle put in a spectacular appearance sweeping past us!
Then it was on to our base at Hotel Bandolero in the quirky pueblo azul of Júzcar. We were a bit sad to find that the Smurf statues had all been confiscated due a copyright infringement! But quirky as ever, the village was still adorned with eclectic murals and street ornaments and the overlook to the wooded valley remained stunning as ever! Simon and Niki delivered the group into the excellent hospitable hands of hotel owners David and Iván. While David provided the entertaining banter, cordon bleu-trained chef would certainly make sure nobody went hungry this week!
Day 2 Friday 2 February
Today we set out to explore more of the area´s glorious limestone habitat, beginning just up the road at Los Riscos crags. We immediately came upon a small flock of Rock Petronias. Several Crag Martins flitted around the sheer rock face, while Blue Rock Thrushes perched on the pinnacles. We caught up with another Black Wheatear, showing well.
We took a stroll out among the crags, the pathway lined with pretty Narcissus baeticus (endemic to Andalucía´s Baetic mountain range) and Broad-leaved Iris. Among the many European Serins, Eurasian Chaffinches and European Greenfinches singing in the valley, we picked out a couple of Cirl Buntings.
As numerous Griffon Vultures began to leave roosts around us, we took our cue from them to move on to our next stop!
And a very pretty one it was too! As the ´picnic fairies´ began their daily magic, the group walked down to the crystal waters of the Cueva del Gato, where a torrent emerges from the end of an 8km cave system to form a mesmerizing aquamarine pool, before joining the Rio Guadiaro. Here we connected with Grey Wagtails and a White-throated Dipper, as well as Black Redstart, Cetti´s and Sardinian Warbler, and wintering Common Chiffchaff and Eurasian Blackcap.
At the picnic spot Crag Martins zoomed around, Griffon Vultures soared overhead, and we were thrilled to be joined by a Bonelli´s Eagle!
We finished the day at the other end of the same cave system, at Cuevo del Hundidero, a massive sinkhole on the mountains above Montejaque, enjoying Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Bunting and more. A Eurasian Black Vulture was picked out among the resident Griffon Vultures of the colony. As the afternoon wore on, we were treated to a spectacular Red-billed Chough-nado of over 90 birds!
Day 3 Saturday 3 February
Today, after collecting the usual freshly-baked loaf from the hotel oven, we headed north east through the Cordilleras Beticas and began by getting acquainted with some of the sensitively-managed arable farmland around the Campillos area. At the Laguna Dulce, we enjoyed 80 wintering Common Cranes flying by, as well as Iberian Grey Shrike, Calandra Larks, Eurasian Skylark and many Crested Larks. Mixed flocks of farmland birds included Common Linnets, European Goldfinch, European Serin, Eurasian Siskin, Corn Bunting and European Greenfinch.
Next, on to another nearby area, which was also full of great stuff, including Northern Lapwing, Iberian Grey Shrike, Eurasian Skylark, Crested Lark, Zitting Cisticola, and Black Redstart. We also had fantastic views of a gorgeous Black-winged Kite. But the stars of the show, wandering through a cereal field, heads poking out of the crop, were seven Little Bustards!! It´s always a joy to encounter this fast-declining bird, miraculously clinging on in arable farmland that used to be its preferred steppe habitat.
Next, on to the main event – the freshwater and saline pools of Laguna de Fuente de Piedra, one of the area´s prime wetland reserves. We started by making a patrol of the spring-fed freshwater ponds, whose contents read like a most-wanted of Spanish wildfowl! We enjoyed White-headed Duck, Black-necked Grebe, Red-crested Pochard and some glorious views of Marbled Ducks among Common Shelduck, Northern Shoveler, Gadwall, Eurasian Teal, Common Pochard, Little Grebe and more!
As we watched a Water Pipit patrolling the shoreline, we got a fly-by from 200 Common Cranes. Waders included Black-Winged Stilts, Little Ringed Plover, Northern Lapwing, Black-tailed Godwit, Common Snipe and Dunlin. We also enjoyed the spectacle of over 2000 wintering Lesser Black-backed Gulls swirling overhead!
After picnic lunch near the visitor centre, we headed to a nearby high point from where we could view down onto the main lagoon. This spring fed lake has no exit point for the water, so it evaporates leaving a saline lagoon behind. Today we could look down on a pink haze created by hundreds of promenading Greater Flamingoes!
Nearby, two stunning Black-winged Kites were mobbing a Common Buzzard, clearly defending a nest site. In a nearby field, over 800 Common Cranes were grazing and emitting their gentle bugling sound. We enjoyed sightings of Little Owl, Western Marsh Harrier and Iberian Grey Shrike in the area.
We headed home and rolled straight into dinner after an action-packed and thoroughly awesome day´s birding!We certainly replaced any lost calories, feasting on chef Iván´s twist on tomates a la abuela – “grannies tomatoes” – and a delicately-flavoured Thai-style curry from partner David! And the delicious melt-in-the-mouth strawberry-glazed mousse put us at a loss for words!
Day 4 Sunday 4 February
Known as the “Osuna Triangle”, this area of arable land is renowned for its populations of steppe birds, clinging on in this largely unfavourable landscape thanks to areas of sensitively farmed land. The plan is to explore the area, making stops and scanning the landscape in favourable areas, seeing what we can find. But straight out of the van on the first stop, we found ourselves looking at 48 Great Bustards! Utterly thrilled, we spent some time observing these enormous yet strangely elegant birds.
We enjoyed Red Kites and Calandra Larks, and before too long found ourselves looking at another 21 Great Bustards!
Above us, 13 White Storks, Red Kites and a handful of early-returning migratory Black Kites, already heading back to European breeding grounds.
Our engaging picnic spot was by a freshwater pool where we could enjoy lunch and a show, with Greater Flamingoes, Common Cranes, Kentish Plover, Dunlin, Little Stint, Spanish Sparrow and 940 Lesser Black-backed Gulls on view.
We had one final stop before heading back – and to our delight we found our prize in the form of a flock of 17 Black-bellied Sandgrouse!!
Chef Iván surpassed himself tonight, serving up giant portobello mushrooms stuffed with rich ratatouille-style pisto and topped with crisp shredded potato fries and a hearty poached egg!
Day 5 Monday 5 February
A change of pace today with a morning visit to the historic city of Ronda. We walked through the scenic Alameda Gardens and along the promenade overlooking the precipitous drop to the west of the city. Across the plains way below, we could see back across to the impressive crags of Montejaque. We continued around the walkway, looking down into the Tajo Gorge which splits the city in two parts, bound together by three historic bridges, one 18th century, one Moorish, and one dating right back to Roman times. In the canyon below us, two Blue Rock Thrush and many Crag Martins.
The group had time to wander in this enjoyable place – and maybe buy some of the excellent local cheese! – before heading back out into the Sierra de las Nieves National Park for picnic in our local patch! We refamiliarized ourselves with its residents, including over sixty Griffon Vultures, three Golden Eagles, Iberian Grey Shrike, Dartford Warbler, Woodlark, Siskin, Rock Bunting and more!
We spent the rest of this relaxed day exploring locally in various nooks and crannies of the Genal Valley, including the rather spellbinding birthplace of the river itself, where the first hints of a spring seep out of the limestone. Here we enjoyed Grey Wagtails and a host of wintering warblers. In the surrounding woodlands, featuring Sweet Chestnut, and various oak species, we enjoyed a suite of woodland goodies including Great Spotted Woodpecker, Eurasian Jay, Crested and Long-tailed Tits, Eurasian Nuthatch, Short-toed Treecreeper and Hawfinch.
Day 6 Tuesday 6 February
The last full day of our trip was already upon us – time for the grande finale, visiting arguably the most spectacular landscape of the area in the Parque Natural de Sierra de Grazalema. As we emerged from the enjoyable drive through Cork Oak dehesa, the view opened out before us.
We spent the morning exploring a valley floor alongside a meandering stream, where soft almond blossom contrasted against the harsh crags behind. Red-billed Choughs called from nests on the cliffs. Hawfinches, Corn and Cirl Buntings Grey and White Wagtails and Meadow Pipit frequented the pastures. Violet Carpenter Bees drifted past in the mild spring sun. A Peregrine Falcon swooped stunningly low over us. Overhead, Griffon Vultures were on the move and among them a Eurasian Black Vulture!
Continuing down the valley, streamside scrub held Cetti´s Warblers and wintering Eurasian Blackcaps. At our scenic picnic spot at the hub of the valley, Short-toed Treecreeper, Song and Mistle Thrush added to the soundtrack and we enjoyed Eurasian Jays, Griffon Vultures and a Eurasian Sparrowhawk overhead. A Eurasian Nuthatch frequented its nest hole, complete with mud porch.
We ended our Grazalema experience literally on a high, heading up to the mountain pass of Puerto de las Palomas at 1357m above sea level – that´s 12m higher than the summit of Ben Nevis! We took a path up a rocky outcrop and enjoyed time looking down on dozens of soaring Griffon Vultures, Common Ravens and Crag Martins, while Blue Rock Thrush and Rock Bunting frequented the nearby boulders.
We headed home, but not without enjoying a couple more treats that our local patch had in store! We finished the birding day watching flitting Dartford Warblers and a high-drama Black Wheatear turf war!
Day 7 Wednesday 7 February
The team went our separate ways with some great memories of mountains, plains, woodlands, wetlands, delicious dinners and picnics, fascinating information, great banter, and of course epic birding!
