Our Autumn Migration experience in The Straits 1st – 7th September 2024 was magical as ever and here we document our #FlywayBirding adventure together. We still have places available in both spring and Autumn 2025 and 2026! Contact us for more information,
For vast numbers of migrating birds done with the arduous business of raising young in Northern Europe, the southward exodus was well underway. For raptors, prodigious travellers and seeming effortless masters of the sky, obstacles such as mountain ranges serve merely as speed bumps. However, large stretches of open water are like kryptonite.
Soaring birds track the coast until reaching the relative pinch point that is The Straits of Gibraltar. This tantalisingly narrow gap between Europe and Africa is blasted by alternating Easterly and Westerly winds making this crossing flight one of the most perilous of barriers in a journey lasting weeks.
The Rif mountains with the looming mass of Jbel Mousa, counterweight to the Rock of Gibraltar (collectively the Pillars of Hercules from antiquity), the meeting of continents, serve as the backdrop to the drama which has unfolded biannually for millennia and where we gather to immerse ourselves in the miracle of migration – this is #FlywayBirding!
In the seeming blink of an eye, our senses were assaulted by skies filled with European Honey Buzzards, the busy and insistent warbling of waves of European Bee-eaters relentlessly pouring southwards, poniente and levante winds in our hair and the tang of the littoral in our nostrils at Rio Barbate. Intimate views of Spanish Imperial Eagle, an incredibly rare visitor from Africa in the form of Rüppell’s Vulture, multiple sightings of the ravening Bonelli’s Eagle, and the joyous cetaceans of The Straits were just a taster of the many wonderful encounters during our week in the inimitable Straits.
1st September
Migration never really stops in The Straits so we were straight into the action after a familiarising ourselves with our ever wonderful base at Huerta Grande – situated between the Estrecho and Los Alcornocales Natural Parks . Lunch, as would be the case for the duration of the trip, was an al fresco affair consisting of fresh, locally sourced extensively-produced and mostly organic produce.
Refreshed and fortified, no time was wasted in positioning ourselves into the flow of migrating wonders at the nearby observatory with sweeping views of Gibraltar and the Bahía de Algeciras.
Raptors, of course, featured – migratory flows of European Honey Buzzards, Short-toed Eagles, Booted Eagles , and Black Kites passing over joined by an Osprey, 3 Egyptian Vultures, 30 Griffon Vultures. A lone Black Stork, European Bee-eaters, and 3 species of swift (Alpine, Common, and Pallid) all contributed to the exciting atmosphere in an exhilarating first hour or so of birding!
A roadside lay-by found us gazing upon a stunning immature Rüppell’s Vulture. This African species has recently become a bit of a speciality in The Straits in recent years as small but increasing numbers are observed crossing The Straits and mingling in local Griffon Vulture colonies.
2nd September
Start the day as you mean to go on. Migration waits for nobody and we had already logged a nice list of birds from the car park before heading out for the day including 68 Black Kite and 150 Sand Martin heading south plus 30 Griffon Vulture rising on the warming air.
Reading the unpredictable winds in The Straits can seem like some sort of dark magic but thanks to the countless hours spent observing the avian conveyor belt that is migration here, experience positions us in the optimum locations to make the best of the conditions.
We take the winding road up to where the rusting artillery battery betrays the recent military past. From this higher central vantage point, in the right conditions, one can seem to be in the flow of birds. We were to experience this magic when a dashing flock of around 80 wonderful Alpine Swifts, the perfect mix of grace, speed, and power seemed to engulf us for a few unforgettable seconds! The odd European Honey Buzzard and Short-toed Eagle allowed for detailed observation as they drifted close overhead making good use of impromptu raptor ageing and ID mini-clinics held on the fly. 40 Black Kites added to the raptor flight attitude familiarisation before, as is the way in this unique area, the wind subtly shifted and we repositioned ourselves to another nearby vantage point where the raptor quotient was to rise. Definitely an Alpine Swift morning too with a further 34 logged along with large numbers of Common and Pallid. Over 300 White Storks shimmered in the distance like an airborne bait ball as they whirled and twisted to best exploit the invisible thermals and escape the attentions of a Bonelli´s Eagle – one of the White Storks was not so fortunate and was taken down by this awesome flyway killer!
11 Egyptian Vultures passed by our grateful gazes as did three figure numbers of European Honey Buzzards, multiple Short-toed and Booted Eagles, Black Kites and, most spectacularly of all, no less than 4 of the bane of the smaller eagles – the much coveted Bonelli’s Eagle. We were incredibly privileged to see these magnificent raptors chase and be chased by Booted Eagles who often fall prey to the larger and more powerful Bonelli’s.
Even with the unfolding drama above us, brief quieter moments added many nice passerine birds to the daily list with Zitting Cisticola, Melodious, Western Bonelli’s and Sardinian Warbler, Western Yellow Wagtail and Cirl Bunting all gratefully observed.
A leisurely lunch stop in the Valle de Santuario de la Luz added two contrastingly beautiful birds for the day in the form of the subtly gorgeous and confiding Thekla’s Lark and the more showy species sharing this habitat, Western Black-eared Wheatear – a dainty study in ochre, black, and white, and just as engaging.
The culmination of a varied days birding and unforgettable encounters are yet to come as we ascend into the realm of the vulture. The Griffon colony is, without hyperbole, a fantastic place. Imposing, sheer rock faces painted with the telltale splashes of white belying the nests and favourite roosting places of the Griffons. Turn 180 degrees and the vista opens up to reveal the Griffon’s view – woodland and rocky escarpments falling to the sweep of golden sand to the mountains of Morocco.
On the short walk to the viewpoint we come face to face with a young Egyptian Vulture feeding of carrion. We keep our distance until the bird takes to the air and treats us to an eye level flypast! Still buzzing, eyes turn skywards to the Griffons.
Watching these huge raptors with massive wingspans boss the airspace effortlessly at close quarters is undoubtedly a high point of any trip to The Straits.
3rd September
The day begins with some car park migration watching before setting out from Huerta Grande. 200 Alpine Swift, 294 European Honey Buzzard, 2 Short-toed Eagle, 21 Booted Eagle, 1 Montagu’s Harrier and 104 Black Kite logged before even setting off.
Parque natural de Los Alcornocales is an area of predominantly cork oak forest covering almost 1,700 square kilometres. We visited the area where the oaks were moving with resident breeding species admixed with migrating species. Common Redstarts were admired in the morning sunshine as were the sallying antics of no less than 9 Spotted Flycatchers. The mix of species is wondrous as Crested Tits and Common Firecrests and the loud, high-pitched calls of Short-toed Treecreepers and the rattling trill of Cirl Bunting vie for attention.
The skies are rarely quiet for long here – European Honey Buzzards, Black Kites, Short-toed and Booted Eagles continued tracking the coast with 2 migrating Eurasian Sparrowhawks along with the near ubiquitous, heard long before seen, European Bee-eaters. and ripples of delight accompanied 2 Eurasian Hoopoes, a firm favourite with the group.
Heading northwest and different habitats and avifauna in the afternoon at Barbate, a once booming tuna fishing port. Making the most of the tidal conditions stopping first at the Rio Barbate where quiet and patient observation can mean being almost surrounded by busily feeding shorebirds. 20 of the impossibly-legged Black-winged Stilt picked delicately at the exposed mud with 17 Grey Plover, 50 Common Ringed Plover, 2 Whimbrel, 5 Eurasian Curlew, 2 Common Sandpiper, 135 Common Redshank, 5 Common Greenshank, 1 Ruddy Turnstone, 4 Red Knot, 4 Curlew Sandpiper, 50 Sanderling, and 120 Dunlin completing an impressive shorebird haul. Gull fans couldn’t help but be satisfied with 2 Slender-billed Gulls (subtle, attenuated relatives of the familiar Black-headed Gull), 4 Mediterranean and Lesser Black-backed Gulls among the default large gull of the area, Yellow-legged. 6 Glossy Ibis, Osprey and Western Marsh Harrier were amongst other sightings of note.
Post lunch and to the marismas, this is an ornithological gem. Over 40 species logged including 11 Eurasian Thick-knees, 30 Pied Avocet, 15 Kentish Plover, 32 Black-tailed Godwit, and 7 tiny Little Stint increased the shorebird list beautifully. A further 2 Slender-billed Gulls, 4 Mediterranean, and 130 – the gorgeous, enigmatic Audouin’s Gull. A larger relative of the Mediterranean Gull, this was perhaps up there as one of the rarest Gull species in the world. Thankfully, due to conservation efforts, they are now increasing.
Patient scanning is further rewarded by the presence of the two extremes of the tern world. 9 dainty, diminutive Little Terns busily fishing over the lagoons while hulking sized Caspian Terns with carrot-coloured dagger bills loaf on nearby islands surrounded by Greater Flamingoes quietly going about their business feeding on the local brine shrimp.
4th September
Back among the migrating raptors, we alternated between two watchpoints where we were once again treated to the marvellous spectacle of mass migration in the most evocative of surroundings.
In a few short hours 2 Alpine Swift, 204 White Stork, 11 Egyptian Vulture, 23 Griffon and another of the rare Rüppell’s, 18 Short-toed Eagles, 51 Booted Eagles, a Bonelli’s Eagle, 3 Eurasian Sparrowhawks, 38 Black Kite, a Common Buzzard and 3 Lesser Kestrels. Thekla’s Lark, Tawny Pipit, and Sardinian Warblers and over 100 European Bee-eaters were also logged in this session.
Moving inland later in the day to visit the vast agricultural area of La Janda, a once mighty wetland which still provides feeding and refuge for an amazing variety of species.
A dusty drive along the elevated road provides an entirely different birding experience as wetland birds headline here. The ringing whistle of Green Sandpipers betray their presence in the ditches and a small flock of Glossy Ibis grab our attention followed by a rangy Purple Heron languidly flapping by. Eurasian Spoonbills, Cattle Egrets, and Grey Herons all make an appearance and then raptors feature again.
Three species of harrier offer an unparalleled opportunity to study the in-flight ID features when the airspace is shared by the methodical, low level quartering of Western Marsh, Hen, and Montagu’s. These buoyant, restless hunters always create an atmosphere of excitement with prolonged viewing.
Good numbers of Spanish Sparrows chirped from the roadside bushes and 9 red-bandit-masked Common Waxbill were an unexpected treat for members of the group unfamiliar with this introduced African species. Corn Buntings and Cetti’s Warbler joined in the backing track.
The only bird to rival the vivid colours of the waxbills and flock of 50 European Bee-eaters passing through was the brief fly by European Roller.
Two glorious Red-rumped Swallows spent a glorious few minutes darting over the group giving stunning views of the diagnostic features including the ‘dipped in ink’ all black tail.
5th September
This day began as all days in The Straits should, staring upwards. The Huerta Grande car park observatory yielded 34 European Honey Buzzard, 70 Black Kite, 40 European Bee-eaters and nice views of resident Hawfinch before heading to Tarifa to venture out into The Straits.
Due to the size of the group, there were two private mini pelagic trips with local, very experienced and ethical cetacean experts, while the non-sailing were stationed at a nearby watchpoint. Over the course of just a couple of hours observation the figures speak for themselves when considering the range of species and the numbers which can rack up. 271 White Stork, 2 Black Stork, 6 Egyptian Vulture, 205 European Honey Buzzard, 46 Short-toed Eagle, 93 Booted Eagle, 1 Bonelli’s Eagle, 2 Marsh Harrier, 1 Montagu’s Harrier, 252 Black Kite, 272 Bee-eater and this on a quiet day during a benign period of weather!
The first of the sailings delighted with a sighting of Fin whale, the second largest animal on the planet and 2 species of dolphin, Common and Striped. Cetaceans are natures happiness therapy. Joy ensues from any and all observations of sea mammals and intimate encounters with whales and dolphins create indelible memories.
Birds of note were 30 Black Terns and the stiff-winged mini-albatrosses Scopoli’s Shearwater – the Mediterranean breeding congener of Cory’s. Until recently considered to be the same species they do occur together in The Straits and are separable with experience.
6th September
Our final full day of #StraitsBirding was to prove exceptional. Excellent conditions dictated a return to raptor watching in time for us to marvel at birds, whose progress had been slowed by rain showers, resuming their journeys in numbers. 1,040 European Honey Buzzards, 112 Booted Eagle, 671 Black Kite, and 339 European Bee-eater kept the tally counters busily clicking during our watch. Egyptian Vulture, Short-toed Eagle, 2 Bonelli’s Eagle, 2 Eurasian Sparrowhawk, 2 Western Marsh Harrier, and 2 Montagu’s Harrier augmented the already impressive raptor flow.
Welcome avian diversions during lunchtime birding at nearby El Bujeo came in the shape of Iberian Chiffchaff, Common Firecrest, Spotted Flycatcher, and Common Redstart while raptors still passed overhead.
La Janda always merits repeat visits and this afternoon was to pay dividends.
A notorious skulker, Western Olivaceous Warbler views can be characterised as more hoped for than expected. This afternoon we were treated to delicious views of a bird sitting in the open on top of a tree. Telescope views revealed this beautiful warbler in all its subtle glory.
In complete contrast, the arguable highlight of the day for many, was an altogether different experience. A large eagle sighting always creates a buzz but none more so than the magnificent Spanish Imperial Eagle, once critically endangered but now classified as vulnerable it is still in a fragile recovery.
We picked the Spanish Imperial up at some distance but it suddenly started to get nearer and nearer! We made sure the approaching eagle was kept in view and that everyone in the group was onto the bird. Amazingly, the eagle drifted even closer! We got stunning views of its frosted shoulders and golden head and then it proceeded to land on the ground right in front of us! Holy smokes!
The Spanish Imperial Eagle undoubtedly a fitting finale to our last full day of a wonderful week of flyway birding.
7th September
Our group dispersed on migrations of their own with European Honey Buzzards still making their way south as we say our goodbyes.
Thanks must go to everyone in the group for making it such an enjoyable immersive, fun #FlywayBirding adventure. We shared the magic and the awe of The Straits migration experience which is never the same from one day to the next.
Special mention to Katrin, Juan-lu, Elena, Antonio, Toñi and the team at Huerta Grande for looking after us so well and of course our lovely guests Jan and Derek, Tim and Tim, Andy and Chris, Lauren, Lee and Claire, Helen, Juni, Bob, Marianne and Vivien
Also special congratulations to Jan and Derek on the their golden wedding anniversary!
Moooooochisimas gracias y hasta la próxima! 😘
Making our #Birding count – the trip list is available via eBird: https://ebird.org/tripreport/271640