What a magnificent week exploring the remote, wooded mountains, limestone crags, and teeming lowlands of the Serranía de Ronda! Despite – and perhaps thanks to – some dramatic weather courtesy of Storm Leonardo, the group experienced the absolute best of Andalucía’s rich biodiversity.
From the rolling, agricultural plains to rain-filled mountain lagoons, our days were filled with world-class wildlife spectacles, including unforgettable encounters with globally threatened Great and Little Bustards, connections with mountain hard-cases like Black Wheatear, Blue Rock Thrush and Rock Petronia (not to mention Spanish Ibex representing the mammals!), iconic White-headed Ducks, thousands of Greater Flamingoes and Common Cranes and a remarkable selection of raptors ranging from majestic Bonelli’s Eagle and Hen Harrier to low-flying squadrons of Griffon Vultures.
Complemented by dense winter flocks of Rock, Cirl and Corn Buntings, newly-arriving Black Kites, and the loud calls of resident Red-billed Choughs, this was an exceptional week of top-tier birding, all paired with unforgettable local gastronomy showcasing the region’s authentic flavours.
Take a look at our eBird trip report to get the full lowdown on the fabulous list of species and sites, and read on for the full adventure!
Day 1 Monday 1st February 2026
Following pickup from Malaga airport, we wended our way 1000m up into the stunning foothills of the Sierra de las Nieves. Parking up in a dell surrounded by Holm Oak and endemic Spanish Fir, Simon took the group on an introductory walk through this beautiful landscape, spotting Woodlark, Dartford Warbler, Black Redstart and Rock Bunting among the boulders and bushes.
Meanwhile, Niki prepared our very first field picnic—a delicious celebration of sustainability and local produce. As the food emerged, we were immediately greeted by a spectacular welcoming squadron of Griffon Vultures coasting effortlessly overhead – coincidence…?!
Later, we explored our new local patch along the Júzcar road, a striking landscape where the stark limestone moonscape beautifully meets the deep chestnut reds and the soft pinks of early almond blossoms. This dramatic length of road hosts one of the densest populations of Black Wheatear and we managed to connect with our first pair in a layby! We also enjoyed our first Blue Rock Thrushes, Thekla´s Larks, and Rock Petronias.
We rounded off our first evening together in the wonderful Hotel Bandolero in the capable hands of owners David and Iván. Cordon bleu-trained Chef Iván welcomed us with some fabulous comfort food, including a rich, traditional potaje and a beautifully zesty lemon meringue tart.
Day 2 Tuesday 2nd February
This morning the peaceful Holm Oak and Sweet Chestnut forests of the Genal Valley served up some incredible avian treats. Braving the early spring moisture, we successfully picked up elusive wintering woodland specialists amongst the trees such as Crested Tit, Woodlark, Short-toed Treecreeper, the Iberian subspecies of Eurasian Nuthatch (Sitta europaea hispaniensis), and lovely views of Great Spotted Woodpecker, whilst a Grey Wagtail actively darted about, thoroughly enjoying the rushing river torrent.
We headed back to our hotel base in Júzcar for lunch, where the roaring log burner provided a welcome warmth to dry us out and warm our spirits. Our leader´s hat was warmed a little too much, and had to be extinguished in the street!
Heading out along the road again, we stopped to check a promising field. Among the huge House Sparrow flocks feeding on leftover grain, we were treated to an astounding bunting bonanza, picking out incredible numbers of Corn Buntings, Cirl Buntings, and Rock Buntings, alongside Rock Sparrows and a striking Black Wheatear!
We paused at a bend in the road for a brilliant finale, watching in awe as all the area’s resident Griffon Vultures launched into the air simultaneously, filling the sky.
After a brilliant day in the field, Iván treated us to savoury tomato tartare filo parcels followed by a spectacular persimmon pavlova.
Day 3 Wednesday 3rd February
The marching intensification of modern agriculture leaves survivors in its wake, and thankfully, there are places where passionate people are willing to help these steppe refugees.
Climbing out of the vehicles onto a helpfully constructed viewing bridge, we scanned the vast, open plains of Osuna. Simon almost immediately located our first two Great Bustards, feeding amongst the specially created patches of suitable insect rich habitat. A closer look revealed a massive group of twenty-odd birds in the next field!
We spent a magic spell watching them feeding and strutting, with a large male making some shy, early attempts at his magnificent “foam-bath” display. The air was filled with the sounds of Spanish Sparrow, Corn Buntings, and around 30 displaying Calandra Larks!
In the very same area, we picked out a Little Bustard, soon realising there were several more partially hidden by the long, wild vegetation. They gave us superb views when they were suddenly spooked by a Raven and took flight.
We drove round to get a closer look, by which time most of the Great Bustards had cleverly evaporated into the landscape. However, the amorous couple remained, allowing us to observe them from a respectful distance. We also picked up quartering Western Marsh Harriers and two beautiful, sleek female Hen Harriers.
Lunch was enjoyed by Laguna de la Ballestera lagoon, which put on a brilliant show. We marvelled at a glittering flock of Greater Flamingos, Kentish Plovers, Black-Winged Stilts and Pied Avocets parading and nesting on the rocky islands, and an elegant Eurasian Hoopoe. To top it off, a White Stork dropped in—an early arrival just back from Africa!
We finished the day exploring further farmland sites, adding five more Great Bustards to our tally as well as Black-winged Kite and superb views of ten Eurasian Stone-curlews.
To top off an exceptional day of birding, we indulged in a decadent, oozing chocolate volcano for dessert.
Day 4 Thursday 4th February
Nature showed its true, raw power today as Storm Leonardo rolled through Andalucia. With our mountain base sitting right at the epicentre of the storm, local police wisely restricted road movements for the day, grounding our vehicles but offering us an opportunity to experience a different, slower-paced side of the Serranía.
We made use of the enforced stay to enjoy some independent downtime and local exploration. In the atmospheric gaps between the rain, guests headed out on foot to explore Júzcar. Wandering through the iconic, vibrant blue-painted streets of the village we experienced their quirky charm against the backdrop of dramatic, mist-shrouded peaks.
Our picnic was held in the cosy hotel salon, and Niki kept us thoroughly spoiled, delivering a fantastic spread featuring piping-hot, freshly made falafels that perfectly hit the spot while the weather raged outside.
Day 5 Friday 5th February
We grabbed a welcome break in the weather and set off with renewed vigour to explore the region’s unique endorheic pools.
Our first stop was a fantastic lake, Laguna Dulce, which is so often baked completely dry but has been brilliantly brought back to life by the recent rains. We were immediately impressed, as among the huge wintering flocks of Northern Shoveler, Common Pochard, Northern Pintail, Gadwall and Mallard, we secured our first views of the rare White-headed Ducks, blue bills shining bright!
Next, we visited the famous, mineral-rich Fuente de Piedra. The surrounding freshwater pools were superb as always, yielding over fifty bird species! Among the assembled ducks, waders and passerines, we enjoyed incredibly close, high-quality views of more White-headed Ducks as well as Black-necked Grebes, some already wonderfully bedecked in their vibrant carnival-mask summer plumage. The sky delivered too, granting us superb views of a majestic Bonelli’s Eagle and we picked up a Great Spotted Cuckoo in flight!
Looking down onto the main lagoon from a viewpoint nestled among the olive trees, we could see a sweeping pink haze of around 2,000 Greater Flamingos alongside several hundred Black-winged Stilts. Just nearby, a large group of fifty-odd wintering Common Cranes was seen feeding in a farmland field.
An impromptu stop to check a promising patch of farmland yielded two stunning Black-winged Kites perched prominently in a bush, with an Iberian Grey Shrike doing exactly the same nearby.
Back at the hotel, we tucked into a comforting pea soup and veggie lasagne, followed by a delicious chocolate mousse served inside an orange sponge cake.
Day 6 Saturday 6th February
We began our day in the historic town of Ronda, watching Griffon Vultures sail overhead across the famous gorge. The town birds performed perfectly, as two Red-billed Choughs flew in calling loudly to sit right on a building beside us. Guests had free time to wander the town´s historic streets – inspiration to many an artist and poet – or take a coffee over-looking the Roman, Moorish and 18th Century bridges.
Moving down to Cueva del Gato, the river was high, fast-flowing, and dramatically scary! We were accompanied as ever by the local vultures—a sight we never take for granted—and caught a thrilling glimpse of another Bonelli’s Eagle.
The famous “folly” reservoir at Montejaque, which normally holds no water at all, was completely full to the brim! The local wildlife had adapted with incredible speed to the flood; several birds were actively feeding on the rich pickings amongst the floating rafts of brash and debris brought by the high waters. This included two Black Wheatears, a Rock Bunting, and both Grey and White Wagtails. Up at the colony crags, we watched vultures drying their outstretched wings in the breeze.
To finish a fantastic loop, a whirlwind of Red-billed Choughs came sweeping in along the Júzcar road to feed on the fallen olives.
We celebrated our final evening together with an elegant lentil basket served with Szechuan cucumbers and sesame, followed by Niki’s favourite fennel risotto, and a strawberry shortcake dessert with a decadent white chocolate mousse.
Day 7 Sunday 7th February
After a final breakfast celebrating our incredible week in Júzcar and the surrounding sierras, we packed up the vehicles. We departed with full species lists, unforgettable memories of Bustards, Eagles, and Flamingoes, and a true appreciation for the wilder side of Andalucía.
Flyway Promise: This tour was proudly carried out in direct support of our primary conservation partners, Fundación Migres. Their tireless work keeps migratory birds safe from regional power infrastructure, and their long-running data gathering program remains utterly invaluable to global avian immigration science. Thank you for helping us support them!
Take a look at our eBird trip report to get the full lowdown on the fabulous list of species and sites, and read on for the full adventure!
Ready to Experience the Magic of Andalucía in Winter?
If reading about Great Bustards, Bonelli’s Eagles, and thousands of Greater Flamingos has inspired your next birding adventure, why not join us in person? Our Serranía de Ronda & Grazalema – Bustards, Eagles & Flamingoes tour combines the wild mountain peaks and steppe plains of southern Spain with cozy local hospitality and delicious, plant-based field picnics.
Explore the full itinerary and reserve your spot today!
