Floating through restored mangrove forests aboard a brightly painted wooden pirogue, travelers find themselves a part of a truly inspiring local conservation success story. This thriving sanctuary is packed with iconic avian highlights—from gaggles of noisy Spur-winged Lapwing to the magnificent Giant Kingfisher. But this vibrant ecosystem isn’t just a paradise for birdwatchers; it’s a community-led lifeline. Here´s how a 7-year collaboration between Inglorious Bustards and the Gambia Bird Watchers Association (GBWA) successfully planted over 114 hectares of mangroves, empowering local guides, locking away tonnes of carbon, and bringing a wild coastal haven back to life.
December 2025, and whilst the Northern Hemisphere is shuddering under its usual blanket of midwinter gloom, we are basking in glorious Gambian sunshine and soaking up the vibrant, colourful wildlife of Kotu Creek. Our brilliant friends at the Gambia Bird Watchers Association (GBWA) have laid on an absolute treat for us—a slow, guided cruise through the meandering creeks of the local mangrove forest.
Drifting through this serene landscape on a brightly painted wooden craft, the tranquility is absolute. The deep, heavy silence is punctuated only by the delicate plop and splash of guide Ebru´s oars, and the birds and fish catching water-insects skating the surface of the mirror-like water. Two-metre-high branches embrace and shade the humid air and root tendrils cascade downwards into the depths.
Throwback to the summer of 2019, when the GBWA and a magnificent army of local volunteers were out in the mud, planting these very trees as tiny propagules. When our group visited later that year in December, we saw the tantalising first signs of success: a whopping 60% survival rate, casting a satisfying haze of green across the mudflats. Another 2.5 hectares were added the following year, expanding into the lush 4.5-hectare haven we’re floating through today. The atmosphere here is so atmospheric and immersive, it feels as though the forest stretches on forever.
Empowering Local Communities and Guiding Livelihoods
This restored showcase area isn’t just a win for nature; it’s an incredible engine for community-led ecotourism, delighting hardcore birders and casual tourists alike. The GBWA now owns three traditional wooden boats, which registered local guides can book out entirely for free. Guides earn around £10 per guest for a two-hour excursion—meaning a fleet that started as just one lone craft is now able to put hundreds of pounds directly into the local economy every day of the high season.
Our guide, Ebru, poetically describes the red mangrove as the “walking forest,” referring to its steady, mysterious march out into the creek, aided by the floating seeds of nearby white mangroves. It’s this natural resilience that makes mangroves such a knockout choice for ecosystem restoration—provided you have the right expertise, honed by the GBWA over the efforts of a seven-year project.
They’ve learned heaps since that initial pilot plot, too. By tweaking planting densities and refining their methods, propagule survival rates have jumped from 60% right up to 75%! Kotu Creek is really just the glittering gateway to even vaster, quieter expanses unseen by most human eyes around Sting Corner and Abuko Nature Reserve. Out there, a further 110 hectares have been restored—representing more than 1,000 bags of hand-planted propagules and the hard graft of 300 passionate volunteers from surrounding villages.
Yet despite their magic, mangroves everywhere are fighting off serious threats: land erosion, plastic pollution, and unsustainable timber cutting. Deforested riverbanks release heavy silt downstream, choking the River Gambia’s vital arteries. They’re also on the front lines of climate change, where erratic rainfall and tidal surges spike soil salinity and degrade coastal swamps across West Africa. Active restoration of damaged zones is, quite simply, our best weapon to safeguard what’s left.
Because Kotu Creek is a protected reserve, destructive fishing is strictly off-limits, allowing the roots to act as a crucial marine nursery. Sheltered tiny fry grow up here safely, and those lucky enough to dodge the sharp bills of Western Reef Herons eventually head out to sea as healthy, mature fish. Even tilapia—that staple of the Gambian dinner table—depend on these calm waters to form shoals and support local fisherfolk.
Unsurprisingly, local fishers are already reporting larger catches of fish and crabs, an observation enthusiastically confirmed by the bewildering variety of kingfishers patrolling the branches above. Plastic waste remains an unwanted nuisance, washing off the new road every rainy season, but the tangled prop-roots act as a giant natural strainer, catching the rubbish where it can be removed by the determined boats and hands of the GBWA and their volunteers before it ever hits the open ocean.
As we love to remind our guests, mangroves are pure ecological magic. Their labyrinthine roots absorb the brutal energy of storm surges, shielding vulnerable coastal communities. They filter out heavy sediments and pollutants, shelter some of the most biodiverse habitats on the planet, and hoard up to five times more carbon per hectare than tropical rainforests. The 114.5 hectares restored through this collaborative project can lock away up to 8 metric tonnes of CO2 every year. That’s enough to offset our entire group’s international flights forty times over! (though, naturally, our travel is already fully offset through World Land Trust!).
Best of all, many of our all-time favourite avian species rely heavily on this rich habitat. Absolute stompers such as the elusive African Finfoot, the legendary Pel’s Fishing Owl, White-backed Night Heron, Blue Paradise Flycatcher, Goliath Heron, African Fish Eagle, and Greater Painted-snipe all find homes in mangroves as well as all the bee-eater species that occur here and half a dozen kingfisher species, scaling all the way from the hyperactive Pied Kingfisher to the massive Giant Kingfisher.
It fills us with immense pride to look down at the bow and see the name painted on the side: Inglorious Bustard. It’s a wonderfully touching nod for funding two of the fleet’s boats and the creation of 114.5 hectares of thriving mangrove wilderness—a habitat brought to life by the sheer grit, passion, and expertise of the GBWA and their incredible team of volunteers.
Day 1: Arrivals, Northern Bald Ibis at Campo de Manzanete & Coastal Waders at Marismas del Barbate
Our Swift Weekender adventure began with arrivals at Gibraltar Airport, where we met up before transferring across to meet Elizabeth, who had already arrived at our base for the tour, Cortijo El Indiviso. As soon as we were all united at the traditional Andalucúan ranch, we sat down together to enjoy a fine picnic lunch brimming with sustainable, locally produced food sourced from conservation-minded producers.
With our appetite satisfied, we kicked off our off-site birding at Campo de Manzanete. Here, we got up close and personal with one of the rarest resident species in The Straits: the charismatic Northern Bald Ibis. We spent time watching nine adults marching in unison, actively probing for invertebrates across the open grasslands. The surrounding countryside was equally alive, offering fantastic looks at colourful European Bee-eater, Spotted Flycatcher, and more.
Next, we took a short journey towards Marismas del Barbate. Scanning the marshes and pools yielded close-up looks at gulls, including Audouin’s Gull, Mediterranean Gull, and Slender-billed Gull, alongside Yellow-legged Gull and Lesser Black-backed Gull. Greater Flamingos sieved in the shallow water, while waders were clearly evident, including Black-winged Stilt and Black-tailed Godwit.
To round off the day, we headed down to El Puente del Río Barbate. As the tide was dropping, tidal mudflats were exposed, drawing in incoming shorebirds. Amongst flocks of Dunlin, Sanderling, and Common Ringed Plover, we found two stunning summer-plumaged Curlew Sandpipers, a passing Whimbrel, and acrobatic Little Terns feeding over the river.
Day 2: Private Farmlands, Shady Woodland & Inland Wetland Jewels
Today we made the hour-long journey inland to explore an area of private farmland. With dedicated scanning and plenty of patience, we achieved our key target for the site: picking out two White-rumped Swifts. Southern Andalucía is one of only a handful of European breeding sites for this highly localised species—a bird more typically associated with Sub-Saharan Africa that has established tiny, prized breeding colonies here by occupying old Red-rumped Swallow nests. Although they kept their distance as they hurtled past, watching these rare European breeders in flight was a real thrill, especially with Alpine Swift, Pallid Swift, and Common Swift sharing the airspace for fantastic comparison.
We took our picnic lunch in the cooler shade of a nearby woodland, which proved to be an exceptional birding spot in its own right. As we ate, European Bee-eaters hawked for insects overhead, while Eurasian Golden Orioles called from the canopy before finally dazzling us with their bright colours. The trees were alive with activity, yielding wonderful encounters with Western Bonelli’s Warblers, Short-toed Treecreepers, and more.
The magic didn’t stop in the woods. Moving on to an inland lagoon, we were treated to stellar views of some of Andalucía’s most sought-after wetland specialities. We enjoyed impressive looks at a single Red-knobbed Coot alongside stiff-tailed White-headed Duck and stomping Black-necked Grebes out on the open water.
Day 3: Scrub Robins, The Swift Sweep, Coastal Terns & Heronry Bedlam
Setting the alarms early paid off massively with first-light encounters with enigmatic Rufous-tailed Scrub Robins. We explored extensively managed organic vineyards with a traditional mosaic of mixed scrub and cropping, getting great views of adults actively feeding their fledged juveniles.
From there, we set out to complete our swift sweep by tracking down the final missing piece of the puzzle: the Little Swift. Like its White-rumped cousin, the Little Swift reaches the absolute northern edge of its breeding range right here across The Straits, making Andalucía one of the exceptionally rare places in Europe where it nests. We visited a bustling breeding colony where these nimble acrobats put on a fantastic show, officially sealing our goal of seeing all five European swift species over the weekend!
With our grand swift sweep achieved, we celebrated over a well-earned second breakfast of fresh tostada con tomate and arguably some of the best churros in Spain.
Following the Little Swifts, we made our way to Playa de Montijo. Timing our arrival perfectly with the tide, we walked out amongst roosting terns and gulls, sifting through a fantastic smorgasbord of coastal birds including Little Tern, Sandwich Tern, Black Tern, Common Tern, Mediterranean Gull, and smart Slender-billed Gull.
Next, we pressed on to Las Salinas de Bonanza. Here, set against the vast backdrop of salt pans, we enjoyed incredible views of thousands of Greater Flamingos feeding alongside Gull-billed Terns, more Slender-billed Gulls, and a rich supporting cast of migratory shorebirds.
Duly energised, we rounded off the day by immersing ourselves in the pure bedlam of a bustling heronry, packed to the brim with life, including close views of Squacco Heron, Glossy Ibis, and Black-crowned Night Heron.
Today was sadly the last day of our adventure, but we kept the momentum going right until the very last second. A strengthening Levante wind had gathered across The Straits, creating classic conditions for raptor movement around Tarifa. The sky at La Milanada came alive with masses of Black Kites swarming around, with huge columns of them—thousands strong—visible over the hillsides waiting to cross.
We even managed to tick off three Barbary Partridges on the drive to the airport in Gibraltar, bringing a fantastic weekend to a close.
Every observation recorded during our tour was logged via eBird, ensuring that our sightings directly contribute to vital global biodiversity data and local flyway conservation efforts in Andalucía. You can explore our full species list, complete counts, and location map from the tour in our public eBird Trip Report here: Swift Weekender eBird Trip Report.
Our inaugural late spring expedition spanning the avian crossroads of The Straits of Gibraltar and the rich wetlands of Andalucía proved to be a spectacular success, yielding an incredible diversity of both migratory and resident species. From our base beneath the ancient Cork Oak canopy of Huerta Grande Rural Eco-lodge, we witnessed the breath-taking spectacle of spring migration in full swing.
Highlights were abundant and varied: from the dense, high-altitude streaming of hundreds of European Honey Buzzards and Black Kites battling the winds at coastal watchpoints, to the pristine, intimate encounters with the critically endangered Northern Bald Ibis colony at Barca de Vejer.
Pushing westward, the group was treated to world-class wetland birding at the Bonanza salt pans, vibrant encounters with a booming Collared Pratincole colony at Barbate, and the unforgettable, tail-flicking song performance of the rare Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin in the Trebujena vineyards.
Balanced beautifully by an exceptional private marine excursion that brought us face-to-face with playful Long-finned Pilot Whales and pelagic travellers such as Balearic and Cory’s Shearwaters, and European Storm Petrel, the journey was a profound celebration of Nature’s grandest highway.
Day 1 Saturday 25 April Welcome to Huerta Grande & Forest Melodies
Convening on our forest dwellings from flights into Gibraltar, overnight stays there, and buses into Algeciras, we took a short whizz around Algeciras Bay and were soon assembled at Huerta Grande Rural Eco-Lodge. After a welcome drink, we settled into cabins in the Cork Oak forest and turn-of-the-century houses, accompanied by the songs of Iberian Chiffchaffs, Crested Tits, and Short-toed Treecreepers.
Niki and Simon laid on a magnificent welcome lunch showcasing, as always, local specialty ingredients including cheeses made in the nearby villages, local organic wines and olives, fresh bread from the bakery, and salads brought together from local producers.
After a little time to unpack, the group took a short stroll around our wooded environment, encountering some of the resident inhabitants and passage migrants including Melodious and Western Bonelli’s Warbler, Common Whitethroat, Common Firecrest, Common Nightingale, European Pied Flycatcher, Hawfinch, and European Serin. For the alert, there was a surprise Red-necked Nightjar roosting among the leaf litter!
Soon it was time for our first three-course meal courtesy of Chef Toñi and the team, ensuring a good night’s sleep ahead of what we hoped would be a superb week of birding.
Day 2 Sunday 26 April Raptors of La Peña & The Cerulean Coast
Today we headed out into a moderate east wind and a fairly overcast day to the observatory of La Peña, where we knew the more intrepid migrating raptors would be making land after a difficult journey across The Straits. While we waited, we enjoyed great views of resident Thekla’s Larks and some resting migrant passerines including Whinchat and Common Whitethroat, as well as the company of the local goat, Maribel!
Soon the raptors were arriving in force, and we saw our first European Honey Buzzards skewing sideways against the wind. They coasted up the ridge at one side of us, accompanied by 27 Black Kites, 9 Booted Eagles, and even 3 intrepid Short-toed Eagles. Griffon Vultures and a Peregrine Falcon soared around the rocky outcrop. We were thrilled to connect with the arrival of 42 Black Storks to Europe.
We spent the morning here enjoying great views of the incredibly variable European Honey Buzzards – 66 in total – soaring over our heads, and took our picnic lunch before moving on.
Heading further west, we made our way up to the crags of Sierra de la Plata. On the route out, we made a stop to get views of a stunning male Black-eared Wheatear. At the crags, we found ourselves underneath the majestic soaring birds of the Griffon Vulture colony, some 90 pairs strong, and an Egyptian Vulture was spotted amongst them. Across the valley, a Short-toed Eagle perched near its nesting site. Eurasian Crag Martins and a Blue Rock Thrush flitted around the imposing rockface.
For our last stop, we headed up the hill still further to the top rocks of Cueva del Moro. Here we could gaze out across the perfect cerulean blue of Bolonia Bay and imagine the view over the Roman city of Baelo Claudia 2,000 years ago. We were closer here to nesting Griffon Vultures, Common Ravens, and Common Kestrels, and we were thrilled when a late push of raptors including a further 22 European Honey Buzzards and a Booted Eagle pushed over our heads—a fantastic end to a great first day.
Day 3 Monday 27 April The Rare Scrub Robin & The Bonanza Salt Pans
With the wind in The Straits ever stronger, today was our opportunity to push out even further west and explore the eastern side of Doñana Natural Park. We made an early start to arrive at the village of Trebujena for first light.
Here, amongst the organic sherry vineyards, is the last stand of the Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin in Spain, and among these traditionally-managed vineyards we were not disappointed. A short walk from the vans and we found ourselves face-to-tail with a stunning bird, singing and flirting its tail from bush to fence to building and back again. We had absolutely outstanding views and a song spectacular from this much sought-after and beautiful bird.
Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin
Also around, we encountered numerous Melodious Warblers, Thekla’s Larks, and as we took in our last views over the Greater Flamingoes of the Guadalquivir river below us, we were chuffed to spot seven Pin-tailed Sandgrouse zooming overhead!
Time for a second breakfast, but not before we had visited the port of Chipiona, where the Little Swift colony proved a joyous early morning sight. These tiny, giggling swifts whizzed over our heads, almost crashing into us, surrounded by screaming Common Swifts. We retreated to a nearby café for tostada and coffee with the swifts still wheeling overhead.
All this, and still time for more before lunch next to the salt pans of Bonanza near Sanlúcar de Barrameda, which were more alive with birds than you can imagine. As we drove up the entrance path, we immediately picked up a Western Osprey and flocks of waders including Dunlin, Sanderling, Common Ringed Plover, and Kentish Plover, and many beautiful, brick-red Curlew Sandpipers practically scampered over our feet.
As Niki prepared the picnic, the group took a walk out to the primary lagoon, enjoying fantastic views of hundreds of Little Terns, Gull-billed Terns, and nesting Pied Avocets, alongside Common Shelduck, Black-winged Stilt, Grey Plover, Common Redshank, Ruddy Turnstone, Little Stint, Slender-billed Gull, Caspian Tern, Glossy Ibis, Eurasian Spoonbill, Booted Eagle, Western Marsh Harrier, and Montagu’s Harrier.
Before heading back, we had two more important stops to make at some local freshwater agricultural ponds turned nature reserves. Here we massively boosted our heron count with Black-crowned Night Heron, Squacco Heron, and Little Bittern in abundance, and got fantastic views of the local population of White-headed Ducks and Red-crested Pochards. We watched non-native but still charming Black-headed Weavers zipping in and out of their woven globe nests, and ended the day with stunning views of an Isabelline Warbler singing so loud and close we could see what it had for breakfast!
After decompressing in the shade with a well-earned choc ice, we headed back for a rest, a gin and tonic, and another smashing three-course meal.
Day 4 Tuesday 28 April Estuary Waders & The Muppet Baby Ibises
Another day of salty treats for the group today as we headed to the Parque Natural de las Breñas y Marismas de Barbate. Beginning at the estuary of the Río Barbate, we watched Whimbrels, Caspian Terns, Audouin’s Gulls, and more on the exposed mudflats. Taking a delicious coffee by the sea as we waited for the tide to come in, we were astounded to see Western Marsh Harriers and European Honey Buzzards crossing the sea here where it is some 30 km wide, demonstrating the risks birds will take during spring migration to get to their breeding grounds.
Moving on to the old salt pans, now a thriving nature reserve, we spent an enjoyable couple of hours revising our waders, such as Common Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Common Sandpiper, Common Redshank, Common Greenshank, and many Sanderlings, Little Stints, Curlew Sandpipers, and Dunlins in stunning summer plumage. Above all this, the superb antics of the Collared Pratincole colony kept us entertained as they called over our heads and practically flew between our scopes. Greater Short-toed Larks and citrus-coloured Iberian Yellow Wagtails represented Team Passerine today.
A lovely picnic lunch at the picnic ground in the woodland was followed by a productive walk through the trees, picking up European Serins, Short-toed Treecreepers, Pied Flycatchers, Spotted Flycatchers, and European Bee-eater, Woodchat Shrike, Melodious Warbler, Western Bonelli’s Warbler, Sardinian Warbler, and Cirl Bunting.
A slightly earlier finish to this relaxed day took us home for the late afternoon, but not before we went to spend time with some well-known local celebrities: the Northern Bald Ibis colony at Barca de Vejer. Currently in a full nesting frenzy, these critically endangered birds are doing extremely well here. The colony we visited is an expansion from the original reintroduction site, and thanks to some subtly interjected artificial ledges, the cliff nests have expanded from 13 to 23 pairs. All of them were looking dapper today with their iridescent plumage and “crazy hair”, with the added attraction of two to three “Muppet baby” chicks in each nest! It was wondrous to observe their comings and goings and tender parenting.
Day 5 Wednesday 29 April Navigating the Mist to Bird-filled Skies
An atmospheric start to the day with low clouds, mist, and smatterings of moisture haunting the coastlines of Spain and Morocco. We knew, however, that many thousands of birds were waiting to migrate north, and this cloud cover would not be enough to stop them. They would spend the day waiting for breaks in the mist to take their chance, and therefore so would we.
With barely any wind at all, we made our way west of Tarifa and began the day at the watchpoint of El Tráfico, spending a brief time getting the feel of things and enjoying the company of European Turtle Dove, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Lesser Kestrel, Eurasian Golden Oriole, Zitting Cisticola, European Red-rumped Swallow, Spotless Starling and Western Yellow Wagtail.
As the clouds lifted, we took the decision to move to nearby Cascabel watchpoint. Here things really kicked off as a break in the weather allowed Black Kites to begin streaming through high on the hilltops. We watched over 700 arrive, interspersed with 18 European Honey Buzzards, 2 Short-toed Eagles, 22 Booted Eagles, and more. The flow of Pallid Swifts was extraordinary, and we were serenaded all the while by Sardinian Warblers, Thekla’s Larks, and a very showy Woodchat Shrike. We took our lunch here amongst the flow, with a spectacular kettle of Griffon Vultures as our constant companions for the afternoon.
With the rising poniente wind, we moved east to the watchpoint of Punta Secreta. Here we ended the day gazing across the spectacular strait to Africa, with a late afternoon passage of 64 European Honey Buzzards and assorted other raptors, securing some great views of them just over our heads. Offshore, seven Mediterranean European Shags shared the rocks with Great Cormorants, Yellow-legged Gulls, and Sandwich Terns.
Day 6 Thursday 30 April The Deep Straits & An Eagle Among the Kites
A big highlight to come again this morning, as we made our way into Tarifa. We began with some urban birding around the town, taking in the colony of Lesser Kestrels on the Church of San Mateo in the centre of the old town. Heading down to the port, we joined Skipper Aurelio aboard our cruiser, which would take us on our private excursion into The Straits themselves.
During our two-hour visit, we encountered many dolphins, but most spectacularly, we were joined by a curious pod of Long-finned Pilot Whales, including some very young calves. They investigated and played around the boat and even exchanged whistles and clicks with us—what a beautiful experience!
Seabird encounters too were fabulous, including Razorbill, Atlantic Puffin, Balearic Shearwater, Cory’s Shearwater, a European Storm Petrel, Northern Gannets, and Black Terns.
After a wonderful couple of hours on the waves, we headed to our “local patch” at Tráfico watchpoint to celebrate with a final slap-up lunch. In keeping with the week, today the bar went higher still with not two, but three award-winning cheeses, including a sheep’s milk cheese with black truffle and a locally produced blue goat’s cheese—absolutely killer flavours combined with a beetroot, avocado, and walnut salad and a rainbow of fresh, sustainably produced fruits and vegetables.
We spent our final afternoon chilling, digesting, and reflecting on a fantastic trip while 20 European Honey Buzzards, 192 Black Kites 21 Booted Eagles, 3 Short-toed Eagles, 3 Egyptian Vultures and more soared over our heads into Europe. On the way back to base, we made a final stop at El Mirador del Estrecho, where the migration was still continuing. Another 247 Black Kites interspersed with other raptors passed above us, and we were thrilled to spot an adult Bonelli’s Eagle getting in among the mix and making the journey even more exciting. A wondrous end to the trip, we made our way home for a bit of relaxation, our final delicious three-course meal of paella and Toñi’s signature Banoffee pie, and toasted our journey with a final gin and tonic.
Day 7 Friday 1 May Fond Farewells
How the week had flown by, and yet how many avian adventures we had enjoyed together! This wonderful group met one last time for breakfast before saying goodbye and continuing our own northerly migrations.
Flyway Promise
This tour was proudly carried out in support of our primary conservation partners, Fundación Migres. Their tireless work keeps migratory birds safe from regional power infrastructure, and their long-running data gathering program remains utterly invaluable to global avian immigration science. Thank you for helping us support them!
Standing beneath hundreds of European Honey Buzzards soaring low over watchpoints across The Straits is a sight you never forget.
You can check out our full eBird Trip Report to see every single species recorded—because on all our tours, we make sure our birding counts for global avian science!
While our set departure dates for 2027 are fully wrapped up, we will soon be announcing our 2028 Honey Buzzard Migration Tour dates across The Straits.
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What a magnificent week exploring the remote, wooded mountains, limestone crags, and teeming lowlands of the Serranía de Ronda! Despite – and perhaps thanks to – some dramatic weather courtesy of Storm Leonardo, the group experienced the absolute best of Andalucía’s rich biodiversity.
From the rolling, agricultural plains to rain-filled mountain lagoons, our days were filled with world-class wildlife spectacles, including unforgettable encounters with globally threatened Great and Little Bustards, connections with mountain hard-cases like Black Wheatear, Blue Rock Thrush and Rock Petronia (not to mention Spanish Ibex representing the mammals!), iconic White-headed Ducks, thousands of Greater Flamingoes and Common Cranes and a remarkable selection of raptors ranging from majestic Bonelli’s Eagle and Hen Harrier to low-flying squadrons of Griffon Vultures.
Complemented by dense winter flocks of Rock, Cirl and Corn Buntings, newly-arriving Black Kites, and the loud calls of resident Red-billed Choughs, this was an exceptional week of top-tier birding, all paired with unforgettable local gastronomy showcasing the region’s authentic flavours.
Take a look at our eBird trip report to get the full lowdown on the fabulous list of species and sites, and read on for the full adventure!
Day 1 Monday 1st February 2026
Following pickup from Malaga airport, we wended our way 1000m up into the stunning foothills of the Sierra de las Nieves. Parking up in a dell surrounded by Holm Oak and endemic Spanish Fir, Simon took the group on an introductory walk through this beautiful landscape, spotting Woodlark, Dartford Warbler, Black Redstart and Rock Bunting among the boulders and bushes.
Meanwhile, Niki prepared our very first field picnic—a delicious celebration of sustainability and local produce. As the food emerged, we were immediately greeted by a spectacular welcoming squadron of Griffon Vultures coasting effortlessly overhead – coincidence…?!
Later, we explored our new local patch along the Júzcar road, a striking landscape where the stark limestone moonscape beautifully meets the deep chestnut reds and the soft pinks of early almond blossoms. This dramatic length of road hosts one of the densest populations of Black Wheatear and we managed to connect with our first pair in a layby! We also enjoyed our first Blue Rock Thrushes, Thekla´s Larks, and Rock Petronias.
We rounded off our first evening together in the wonderful Hotel Bandolero in the capable hands of owners David and Iván. Cordon bleu-trained Chef Iván welcomed us with some fabulous comfort food, including a rich, traditional potaje and a beautifully zesty lemon meringue tart.
Day 2 Tuesday 2nd February
This morning the peaceful Holm Oak and Sweet Chestnut forests of the Genal Valley served up some incredible avian treats. Braving the early spring moisture, we successfully picked up elusive wintering woodland specialists amongst the trees such as Crested Tit, Woodlark, Short-toed Treecreeper, the Iberian subspecies of Eurasian Nuthatch (Sitta europaea hispaniensis), and lovely views of Great Spotted Woodpecker, whilst a Grey Wagtail actively darted about, thoroughly enjoying the rushing river torrent.
We headed back to our hotel base in Júzcar for lunch, where the roaring log burner provided a welcome warmth to dry us out and warm our spirits. Our leader´s hat was warmed a little too much, and had to be extinguished in the street!
Heading out along the road again, we stopped to check a promising field. Among the huge House Sparrow flocks feeding on leftover grain, we were treated to an astounding bunting bonanza, picking out incredible numbers of Corn Buntings, Cirl Buntings, and Rock Buntings, alongside Rock Sparrows and a striking Black Wheatear!
We paused at a bend in the road for a brilliant finale, watching in awe as all the area’s resident Griffon Vultures launched into the air simultaneously, filling the sky.
After a brilliant day in the field, Iván treated us to savoury tomato tartare filo parcels followed by a spectacular persimmon pavlova.
Day 3 Wednesday 3rd February
The marching intensification of modern agriculture leaves survivors in its wake, and thankfully, there are places where passionate people are willing to help these steppe refugees.
Climbing out of the vehicles onto a helpfully constructed viewing bridge, we scanned the vast, open plains of Osuna. Simon almost immediately located our first two Great Bustards, feeding amongst the specially created patches of suitable insect rich habitat. A closer look revealed a massive group of twenty-odd birds in the next field!
We spent a magic spell watching them feeding and strutting, with a large male making some shy, early attempts at his magnificent “foam-bath” display. The air was filled with the sounds of Spanish Sparrow, Corn Buntings, and around 30 displaying Calandra Larks!
In the very same area, we picked out a Little Bustard, soon realising there were several more partially hidden by the long, wild vegetation. They gave us superb views when they were suddenly spooked by a Raven and took flight.
We drove round to get a closer look, by which time most of the Great Bustards had cleverly evaporated into the landscape. However, the amorous couple remained, allowing us to observe them from a respectful distance. We also picked up quartering Western Marsh Harriers and two beautiful, sleek female Hen Harriers.
Lunch was enjoyed by Laguna de la Ballestera lagoon, which put on a brilliant show. We marvelled at a glittering flock of Greater Flamingos, Kentish Plovers, Black-Winged Stilts and Pied Avocets parading and nesting on the rocky islands, and an elegant Eurasian Hoopoe. To top it off, a White Stork dropped in—an early arrival just back from Africa!
We finished the day exploring further farmland sites, adding five more Great Bustards to our tally as well as Black-winged Kite and superb views of ten Eurasian Stone-curlews.
To top off an exceptional day of birding, we indulged in a decadent, oozing chocolate volcano for dessert.
Nature showed its true, raw power today as Storm Leonardo rolled through Andalucia. With our mountain base sitting right at the epicentre of the storm, local police wisely restricted road movements for the day, grounding our vehicles but offering us an opportunity to experience a different, slower-paced side of the Serranía.
We made use of the enforced stay to enjoy some independent downtime and local exploration. In the atmospheric gaps between the rain, guests headed out on foot to explore Júzcar. Wandering through the iconic, vibrant blue-painted streets of the village we experienced their quirky charm against the backdrop of dramatic, mist-shrouded peaks.
Our picnic was held in the cosy hotel salon, and Niki kept us thoroughly spoiled, delivering a fantastic spread featuring piping-hot, freshly made falafels that perfectly hit the spot while the weather raged outside.
Day 5 Friday 5th February
We grabbed a welcome break in the weather and set off with renewed vigour to explore the region’s unique endorheic pools.
Our first stop was a fantastic lake, Laguna Dulce, which is so often baked completely dry but has been brilliantly brought back to life by the recent rains. We were immediately impressed, as among the huge wintering flocks of Northern Shoveler, Common Pochard, Northern Pintail, Gadwall and Mallard, we secured our first views of the rare White-headed Ducks, blue bills shining bright!
Next, we visited the famous, mineral-rich Fuente de Piedra. The surrounding freshwater pools were superb as always, yielding over fifty bird species! Among the assembled ducks, waders and passerines, we enjoyed incredibly close, high-quality views of more White-headed Ducks as well as Black-necked Grebes, some already wonderfully bedecked in their vibrant carnival-mask summer plumage. The sky delivered too, granting us superb views of a majestic Bonelli’s Eagle and we picked up a Great Spotted Cuckoo in flight!
Looking down onto the main lagoon from a viewpoint nestled among the olive trees, we could see a sweeping pink haze of around 2,000 Greater Flamingos alongside several hundred Black-winged Stilts. Just nearby, a large group of fifty-odd wintering Common Cranes was seen feeding in a farmland field.
An impromptu stop to check a promising patch of farmland yielded two stunning Black-winged Kites perched prominently in a bush, with an Iberian Grey Shrike doing exactly the same nearby.
Back at the hotel, we tucked into a comforting pea soup and veggie lasagne, followed by a delicious chocolate mousse served inside an orange sponge cake.
Day 6 Saturday 6th February
We began our day in the historic town of Ronda, watching Griffon Vultures sail overhead across the famous gorge. The town birds performed perfectly, as two Red-billed Choughs flew in calling loudly to sit right on a building beside us. Guests had free time to wander the town´s historic streets – inspiration to many an artist and poet – or take a coffee over-looking the Roman, Moorish and 18th Century bridges.
Moving down to Cueva del Gato, the river was high, fast-flowing, and dramatically scary! We were accompanied as ever by the local vultures—a sight we never take for granted—and caught a thrilling glimpse of another Bonelli’s Eagle.
The famous “folly” reservoir at Montejaque, which normally holds no water at all, was completely full to the brim! The local wildlife had adapted with incredible speed to the flood; several birds were actively feeding on the rich pickings amongst the floating rafts of brash and debris brought by the high waters. This included two Black Wheatears, a Rock Bunting, and both Grey and White Wagtails. Up at the colony crags, we watched vultures drying their outstretched wings in the breeze.
To finish a fantastic loop, a whirlwind of Red-billed Choughs came sweeping in along the Júzcar road to feed on the fallen olives.
We celebrated our final evening together with an elegant lentil basket served with Szechuan cucumbers and sesame, followed by Niki’s favourite fennel risotto, and a strawberry shortcake dessert with a decadent white chocolate mousse.
Day 7 Sunday 7th February
After a final breakfast celebrating our incredible week in Júzcar and the surrounding sierras, we packed up the vehicles. We departed with full species lists, unforgettable memories of Bustards, Eagles, and Flamingoes, and a true appreciation for the wilder side of Andalucía.
Flyway Promise: This tour was proudly carried out in direct support of our primary conservation partners, Fundación Migres. Their tireless work keeps migratory birds safe from regional power infrastructure, and their long-running data gathering program remains utterly invaluable to global avian immigration science. Thank you for helping us support them!
Take a look at our eBird trip report to get the full lowdown on the fabulous list of species and sites, and read on for the full adventure!
Ready to Experience the Magic of Andalucía in Winter?
If reading about Great Bustards, Bonelli’s Eagles, and thousands of Greater Flamingos has inspired your next birding adventure, why not join us in person? Our Serranía de Ronda & Grazalema – Bustards, Eagles & Flamingoes tour combines the wild mountain peaks and steppe plains of southern Spain with cozy local hospitality and delicious, plant-based field picnics.
Whether you’re standing at the coastal watchpoints of Tarifa or scrolling through our online updates, watching migration through The Straits of Gibraltar sparks endless fascination—and plenty of online debate!
From questions about starting dates to debates over flight paths, aerodynamic mechanics, species identification, and even skepticism about whether what we film is real, we’ve gathered the most common queries and myths from our community to set the record straight on how this world-famous bottleneck really works.
1. “Isn’t it too early for migration? Doesn’t autumn migration start in September?”
The Short Answer: Not at The Straits!
While September is a fantastic month for species like Booted Eagles and Short-toed Eagles, nature doesn’t operate on standard calendar months. Different species run on completely different biological timetables:
White Storks are the vanguard of the southbound passage. Once nesting duties wrap up across Europe, they gather in massive numbers and begin moving south in early July, reaching their absolute peak in late July and early August.
Black Kites follow the exact same early window, filling the skies alongside the Storks.
By the time September rolls around, the early movers have already made their passage, handing the sky over to the mid- and late-season Raptors!
2. “Why does migration start in July—is climate change pushing dates earlier?”
While climate change is undoubtedly impacting global bird populations and shifting some wintering ranges, early July migration for White Storks and Black Kites is not a climate shift. Decades of long-term field monitoring by our partners at Fundación Migres show that early July has always been the natural departure window for these species once breeding is complete. Staying in Europe offers no evolutionary benefit once chicks are fledged, so they head south right on schedule.
3. “Are these massive flocks real, or is this AI-generated footage?”
It’s sad to admit, but we’ve actually had commenters call us liars on social media, claiming our videos of tens of thousands of birds in the sky were fake or generated by AI (though those comments often get quietly deleted by their authors once the facts come out!).
We can assure you: every frame is 100% real. The spectacle of tens of thousands of Raptors and Storks gathering along the coast is an ancient, natural phenomenon documented long before digital video existed. If you ever doubt what you’re seeing on screen, come stand on the coastal hills above Tarifa in late July—the sound of thousands of wings overhead is something no AI can ever replicate!
4. “How does migration here compare to other world-famous bottlenecks like Georgia or the Bosphorus?”
The Straits of Gibraltar operate on a year-round migratory treadmill that is virtually unique on Earth.
Batumi (Georgia) & The Bosphorus (Turkey): These incredible bottleneck sites have very defined, ~2-month autumn windows (typically mid-August to October). Over in Georgia, for example, White Storks are a tiny minority—the main push kicks off in late August with European Honey Buzzards, followed by massive numbers of Black Storks, Harriers, and Eagles into late September.
The Straits of Gibraltar: Our flyway operates as a year-round cycle. Spring migration begins as early as late November with returning White Storks, building from February and running straight through June with late European Honey Buzzards and non-breeding Raptors. With virtually no gap, early July hands off seamlessly to the autumn return. The flyway simply changes gear!
5. “It’s only 14 km across The Straits—isn’t that an easy hop for a soaring bird?”
On a map, 14 km (9 miles) looks like a short distance, but for a broad-winged soaring bird, a sea crossing is a massive physical and technical hurdle.
The Thermal-Free Zone: Soaring Raptors and Storks rely on rising columns of warm air (thermals) over land for lift. Cold sea water does not generate thermals. The moment a bird leaves the coast, standard thermal updrafts vanish completely.
Tacking Like a Sailboat: Without thermals, how do they stay airborne? Soaring Raptors must harness the marine wind itself. By judging wind velocity and angles precisely, they use dynamic wind resistance for lift. Though strong head- and cross-winds cut their ground speed to a crawl, the wind provides the vital lift they need to ‘tack’ across the channel like a sailboat.
Wind Dictates the Spot: Wind doesn’t just dictate how they fly, but where they leave from in autumn or arrive at in spring. Depending on whether the easterly Levante or westerly Poniente is blowing, departure and arrival points shift drastically along the coast—birds might stream out directly over Tarifa, or drift right across to Algeciras or Cazalla. Reading the local weather accurately and knowing where to position yourself is key to staying right in the heart of that flight stream!
The High-Stakes Calculation: Deprived of thermal altitude, birds enter a prolonged, energy-draining powered glide. Coastal winds push them sideways off course, turning a 14 km straight line into a 20 to 30 km grueling crossing. Judging these marine wind conditions before leaving land is literally essential to their survival.
6. “What is La Milanada?”
La Milanada is the evocative local term used to describe the breathtaking gathering of Black Kites along The Straits in mid-summer.
Because open-water crossings are so physically demanding, tens of thousands of Black Kites funnel down to the coast, building up in immense numbers while waiting for optimal wind conditions. When favourable winds arrive, thousands of Kites lift into the sky simultaneously, literally darkening the sky above Tarifa before taking the leap across to Africa.
7. “Is illegal bird shooting still a threat along this flyway?”
Wildlife crime remains a tragic reality along several sections of the Mediterranean flyway, but The Straits is a massive conservation success story.
Thanks to decades of dedicated monitoring by local organisations like our partners atFundación Migres, strict legal protection, and active enforcement by SEPRONA (Spain’s environmental protection police), illegal shooting of birds of prey around The Straits of Gibraltar has been virtually eliminated. Unlike ongoing persecution issues elsewhere—such as the plight of Hen Harriers in the UK—The Straits stands out as a genuine safe haven where hundreds of thousands of soaring migrants can wait out strong winds in peace.
The Straits Migration Calendar: Species Timetable
Nature doesn’t follow rigid deadlines! The dates below are not absolute start and end cut-offs, but rather expected windows of movement based on decades of census data with Fundación Migres.
A Note on Early Eagles: You might spot species like Booted Eagles and Short-toed Eagles crossing southbound as early as July! These early movers are typically sub-adult non-breeders. Even though 2nd and 3rd-year birds have zero intention of nesting that season, spending the summer wandering across Spain, Portugal, or France allows them to map out prime woodland/open-country feeding territories, assess local competition, and establish range familiarity for when they are ready to breed. Crucially, these non-breeders—just like the adults—are utilising the extended daylight hours of the northern summer to maximise foraging and development time, rather than relying solely on prey abundance.
Late August – Early September (Peak ~Aug 28–Sep 3)
Mid-September
Egyptian Vulture
Late July
Late August – Early September
November
Black Stork
Early August
Mid – Late September
Mid-October
Griffon Vulture
Mid-September
Late October – Early November
December
Spring Migration (Northbound: Africa to Europe)
Species / Family
Expected Start
Peak Window
Expected End
White Stork
Late November
January – February
March
Black Kite
Late January
February – March
Mid-April
Short-toed Eagle
Early February
Mid-March – Early April
May
Booted Eagle
Early February
Mid-March – April
May
Egyptian Vulture
Mid-February
March – April
May
Montagu’s Harrier
Late February
April
Early May
European Honey Buzzard
Late April
First week of May (Peak ~May 1–10)
June (stragglers)
Griffon Vulture
April
May – June
Late July
Experience #FlywayBirding with the Specialists!
At Inglorious Bustards, we are dedicated specialists in #FlywayBirding, living and breathing this year-round migratory phenomenon. There is simply nothing like standing at The Straits watchpoints in person to experience the raw power of avian migration.
Want to witness the sky dark with thousands of European Honey Buzzards, Eagles, and Kites tackling the ocean leap?
Check out our prime-season migration tours and join us on the frontlines of one of the greatest wildlife spectacles on planet Earth—no filter or AI required!
Our spring expedition to the legendary Straits of Gibraltar delivered an absolute masterclass in bird migration and regional biodiversity. Set against the backdrop of changing winds and rugged Andalucían landscapes, the week provided breathtaking spectacles—from massive kettles of over 1,200 migrating Black Kites, soaring Booted Eagles, Short-toed Eagles, and a majestic Bonelli’s Eagle shifting over the coast to intimate maritime encounters with resident dolphin pods.
By exploring a magnificent mosaic of habitats including the Cork Oak woodlands of Los Alcornocales, the freshwater havens of Laguna de Medina, the vast plains of La Janda, and local intertidal salt pans, our group integrated world-class birdwatching with low-impact ecotourism. From elegant Greater Flamingos, Glossy Ibises, and newly arrived Collared Pratincoles wading in the wetlands to colourful European Bee-eaters, woodland Common Firecrests, and the critically endangered Northern Bald Ibis, we celebrated the very best of the East Atlantic Flyway alongside exceptional local gastronomy and vital conservation insights. The impressive numbers on the eBird Trip Report are only half the story! Read on for the rest!
Day 1 Sunday 22 March Welcome to the Enchanted Forest
After assembling from various hotels and mid-morning flights, we arrived at the beautiful, forested grounds of Huerta Grande Rural Eco-Lodge. The grounds consist of seven acres of mixed woodland on the edge of Los Alcornocales Natural Park. Once a secluded retreat for Franco’s military top brass, these woods are now a sanctuary for forest birds. After settling into our log cabins and turn-of-the-century houses, we set out for a preliminary exploration of our surroundings.
We enjoyed great views of Hawfinch, Common Firecrest, Crested Tit, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Iberian Chiffchaff, and Short-toed Treecreeper. All the while, we could look up to the skies to see migrant eagles right above our heads, including Short-toed Eagle and Booted Eagle, along with the odd Black Kite. Our first dinner at the lodge was a romantic candlelit affair thanks to a badly-timed local power outage! Cooking by headtorch, amazing Chef Toñi, provided us with the full delicious menu, featuring a magnificent salad of tomatoes from the property’s own allotment, a creamy wild mushroom rice dish, and a sumptuous strawberry cheesecake. Yum!
Day 2 Monday 23 March Dolphins of the Bay & Sky-High Raptors
Our organic, fluid itinerary in this area is dictated entirely by winds and weather, and plans change constantly during the week to ensure the team is on point for the best possible wildlife experience each day. Today, we headed straight out onto the water, making use of the relatively calm weather to head into the Bay of Algeciras with skipper Aurelio and marine biologist Ezekiel. Splitting into two smaller groups allowed us to benefit from his cruiser yacht, the Miamita, which gave both groups fantastic, intimate encounters with large pods of Common Dolphins. This is one of the species that inhabit the bay itself, successfully breeding here despite all the heavy shipping traffic.
We delighted at the sight of some tiny calves playing around the prow of the boat and a huge group of adults surfing the boat’s bow wave. Northern Gannets, Sandwich Terns and Mediterranean Gulls patrolled the surf.
Meanwhile, up on the cliffs above Tarifa, the raptor migration was kicking off! Positioning ourselves in exactly the right location for the prevailing levante (easterly) wind, we found ourselves at eye level with hundreds of raptors including 192 Booted Eagles and 52 Short-toed Eagles streaming in over our heads! Among them Black Kites, Eurasian Sparrowhawks, Lesser Kestrels, and Marsh Harriers! European Bee-eaters, Woodchat Shrikes, Common Nightingale, Tawny Pipit and Red-rumped Swallows provided a strong supporting cast.
We stayed right here on the sunny clifftop for our picnic lunch, which—as it would be every day—was packed full of local, sustainably produced salads, regional cheeses, organic wines, and fresh artisan bread from the local bakery in Pelayo. We spent a relaxed semi-siesta watching the flow of eagles gradually peter out before heading a little further west along the coast.
In the valley of Santuario de la Luz, we enjoyed some time at the watchpoint of La Peña, where successfully-crossed birds were assembling to hunt, find somewhere to roost, and regroup for their onward journey. More Black Kites, Booted Eagles, and Short-toed Eagles soared above our heads, mixing with the resident Griffon Vultures.
We also took some time to look down into the Mediterranean scrub, where we enjoyed singing Thekla’s Larks, Spanish Sparrows, Black Redstarts, and an extraordinary Woodchat Shrike that posed for a long time to give the photographers a cracking shot at getting some superb images.
Finally, we took a look at the medieval sky-burial site, where in days of yore, the area’s Visigothic Christian communities placed their dead for their final journey, assisted by the neighbourhood vultures.
An absolutely stupendous and action-packed day, we headed back to relax with a well-earned gin and tonic!
Day 3 Tuesday 24 March Watery Wonders
Today, the area’s famous levante winds reached a real peak, so we headed inland, escaping its vicious strength whilst giving us an excellent opportunity to build an even better list of birds. Stopping first at the Embalse de Barbate, we overlooked many pairs of White Storks busily building and reconstructing their nests for the upcoming breeding season. Overhead, more arriving raptors kept us occupied, whilst the surrounding vegetation was alive with singing Corn Buntings, Zitting Cisticolas, Spanish Sparrows, Iberian Yellow Wagtails and more!
After a welcome comfort stop, we headed to the main event at the Laguna de Medina. We spent the rest of the day working our way around this expansive body of freshwater—a rare and precious commodity in this arid landscape.
Among the assembled rafts of Common Coots, Gadwall, Common Pochard, and Northern Shoveler, we were able to add some great specialist species to our trip list, including 34 Red-crested Pochards, two examples of the elusive Ferruginous Duck, two endangered and extraordinary-looking White-headed Ducks. In groups of Little and Great Crested Grebes, even more glamourous Black-necked Grebes shone out.
The air was full of hirundines, with Barn Swallow and Red-rumped Swallow evident amongst the hundreds of assembled House Martins. Among a huge flock of 400 Mediterranean Gulls with Yellow-legged and Lesser Black-Backed, we picked out three sheltering Little Gulls. The sounds of Western Bonelli´s Warbler and Common Nightingale filled the air and a migrant Willow Warbler showed well. A Eurasian Stone-curlew called and a beautifully vocal Western Olivaceous Warbler moving through the reeds.
Day 4 Wednesday 25 March The Vulture Cliffs & The King of the Skies
With yesterday’s exhilarating wind now subsided to a moderate breeze, it was the perfect day to head west along the coast to the seaside town of Bolonia and the mountains of the Sierra de la Plata beyond.
We pulled into the beautiful, breezy beach at Bolonia, where delicate Kentish Plovers awaited us on the sand and we were able to spot through the scopes elegant Scopoli´s Shearwaters navigating the ocean drafts like absolute bosses.
Incredibly, directly over our heads, arriving raptors were hitting the coast—including Black Kites and Booted Eagles. These unstoppable wind warriors had just made a grueling sea crossing of over 25 km from Africa to reach Europe today.
We moved on up the limestone crags to the local Griffon Vulture colony at the cliffs of La Zarga. As we peered at the guano-spotted cliffs, our eyes adjusted to the handsome vulturine forms lurking there, and we could see more and more of them settled at their nests. Soaring overhead were their partners and extended family, swishing, cackling, and bringing in additional nesting material. We had superb views of the resident pair of Egyptian Vultures, newly arrived back at their nest site. Common Ravens and Common Kestrels shared this lofty site, and we spotted a gorgeous Blue Rock Thrush singing from a high pinnacle.
We had anticipated the wind would pull migrating raptors into this area, but we were still completely overwhelmed by the spectacular nature of the event that awaited us. Over the course of the morning and lunchtime, we clocked over 1,200 Black Kites in great, swirling masses directly over our heads! Amongst them, more Booted Eagles, Montagu’s Harriers, Western Marsh Harriers, Eurasian Sparrowhawks, Short-toed Eagles, and even an impressive young Spanish Imperial Eagle joined the throng.
Suddenly, the watchful resident Common Ravens signalled danger at the arrival of the baddest bird in the skies: a stunning adult Bonelli’s Eagle!
After a fabulous picnic in this awe-inspiring place featuring all our favourite local treats, we headed further on up to the very top of the crag. Stopping en route, we got superb views of a super-fresh and exceptionally handsome Western Black-eared Wheatear, which posed perfectly for us on top of a low shrub.
Up at the height of the Cueva del Moro, we were able to look down across the stunning seascape beneath us, taking in the ancient ruins of the Roman town of Baelo Claudia, while the caves above us sat rich with local palaeo-art dating from the early Stone Age. Griffon Vultures soared above us again, just as they had over all the civilisations that came before. A final, late push of migration featuring 400 Black Kites, interspersed with Montagu´s and Marsh Harriers, Booted and Short-toed Eagles, and a Western Osprey brought our high-altitude day to a high-octane close!
Day 5 Thursday 26 March Riches of the Salt Pans & The Secret Ibis
After yesterday’s mind-blowing migration spectacle, we went for a complete change of scene today, visiting the coastal intertidal mudflats, salt marshes, and woodland habitats of Las Breñas y Marismas de Barbate—Spain’s smallest but arguably most perfectly formed Natural Park.
Great avian riches awaited us at our first stop: the ancient salt pans at the eastern end of the town of Barbate. We were thrilled to see and hear the antics of the newly arrived Collared Pratincoles, which had taken up residence in their breeding colony once more, squeaking and bobbing noisily above us.
We filled our binoculars, scopes, cameras, and hearts with views of Little Tern, Black-winged Stilt, Little Stint, Curlew Sandpiper, Dunlin, Sanderling, Kentish Plover, Pied Avocet, and Common Redshank—all set against a gentle, pink-hued background of hundreds of Greater Flamingoes.
The wind had dropped overnight, filling the shrubs with passerine migrants including Iberian Chiffchaffs and Western Subalpine Warblers by the score. From the adjacent farmland sang Greater Short-toed Larks, Calandra Larks, Crested Larks, and Corn Buntings, while a huge group of newly arrived White Storks cast flying squadron shadows on the ground around us. Fabulous!
Our picnic lunch amongst the Stone Pines and Cork Oaks of Las Breñas was packed with delicious local produce, including a fantastic local cheese matured in rosemary, fresh bread from the bakery, organic wines, fresh salads, local olive oil, and artisan salt. While it was being prepared by our woodland picnic fairies, Simon and Niki, the group wandered under the canopy, enjoying Short-toed Treecreepers, singing and displaying Eurasian Hoopoes, European Serins, Iberian Chiffchaffs, and Common Redstarts.
After lunch, we dropped back down towards the marshes where the low tide had revealed vast stretches of estuarine mud. Viewing from the shelter of a bridge, we got lovely close views of Sanderling, Dunlin, and Common Ringed Plover, and were happy to add more avian treats to our list, including Common Greenshank, Whimbrel, Caspian Tern, and a Western Osprey perched on a post dynamically devouring a Grey Mullet!
Time to head back, but not before two more treats! The first was a refreshing ice cream stop, and the second, arguably more memorable one, took us to the small town of Vejer de la Frontera. Simon’s secrecy paid off beautifully; the group found themselves totally surprised to be looking right across a busy road at a thriving breeding colony of the critically endangered Northern Bald Ibis just metres away from where we stood!
These stunning, iridescent birds with their crazy head feathering and bald faces are anything but ugly, and we stood for an inordinate amount of time enjoying their antics at the nest site as they bonded, regrouped, and incubated eggs for the forthcoming generation of this incredibly rare and special bird.
Back at the lodge, Toñi and the team feathered our nests superbly again with a fresh salad, garlic-roasted new potatoes, homemade pisto (a local take on ratatouille), and a deliciously sweet, fresh fruit salad.
Day 6 Friday 27 March La Janda, Butterflies & Buntings
Still more of the incredibly varied habitats of this glorious area awaited us today. We headed inland once more through Los Alcornocales Natural Park, making an initial stop by the Tajo de las Figuras crags, where ancient cave paintings have been found depicting hundreds of birds with dozens of identifiable species—perhaps an early prehistoric eBird list, or simply a very old menu!
After getting good looks of Woodchat Shrike and Little Ringed Plover, we moved on to the main event of the day: the historic rice fields and farmlands of La Janda.
This once-spectacular wetland lagoon, covering 3,000 hectares in its heyday, was looking mighty fine for nature today after a very wet spring and recent warm weather. The vast expanse was alive with vibrant wildflowers, muddy margins, fallow fields, and newly planted crops. We sat back and simply enjoyed the sight of over 300 Greater Flamingos and dozens of Glossy Ibises and Eurasian Spoonbills feeding in the muddy rice stubble. Among them was a brilliant riot of newly arrived Western Yellow Wagtails, where we picked out both the local Iberian breeding subspecies (iberiae) and migrating British (flavissima) individuals.
After viewing an Egyptian Vulture investigating a cow pat in a nearby field, we moved onward through this vast landscape, making another stop to enjoy Spanish Sparrows, Corn Buntings, Red-rumped Swallows, European Bee-eaters, and more.
We enjoyed lunch in a sheltered, sunny glade near the village of Facinas. After devouring our picnic, we turned our attention to the beautiful butterflies of this spot, successfully picking out Bath White, the intricate Spanish Festoon, Painted Lady, Provençal Hairstreak, and the striking Moroccan Orange Tip.
Switching it up once more for the afternoon, we headed into the picturesque coastal town of Tarifa. Simon and Niki steered the group through the labyrinth of narrow, whitewashed streets to the historic Church of San Mateo, where we enjoyed the lively activity of several pairs of nesting Lesser Kestrels.
After some free time to wander, enjoy an ice cream, and listen to the calls of Tarifa´s famously solitary Common Bulbul, we headed back to Huerta Grande one final time for a celebratory gin and tonic and a delicious three-course meal, climaxing with Toñi’s excellent vegetable soup and everyone’s favourite—an authentic regional paella.
Day 7 Saturday 28 March Fond Farewells
It was already time to leave after a magical week of migration wizardry and hugely varied birdwatching in this superb part of the Iberian Peninsula. The group enjoyed one last breakfast amongst the resident Common Firecrests and Hawfinches before dispersing for onward flights, train journeys, and extended holiday stays. Simon and Niki would like to thank the entire group for their unerring patience, inevitable good humour, and wonderful ability to soak in the natural splendour of The Straits. We hope to see you all on the flyway again soon!
Flyway Promise
This tour was proudly carried out in support of our primary conservation partners, Fundación Migres. Their tireless work keeps migratory birds safe from regional power infrastructure, and their long-running data gathering program remains utterly invaluable to global avian migration science. Thank you for helping us support them!
There is a quiet, powerful drama that unfolds in the far south of Iberia once the frantic rush of autumn migration has settled. While many birders pack up their scopes in September, we know that the true heavyweight spectacle is only just beginning.
We’ve just uploaded our eBird Trip Report from our recent “Unknown Vulture Spectacle” tour. With a total of 122 species recorded, it was a journey defined by mountain gems, coastal rarities, and a staggering avian phenomenon: the mass dispersal of thousands of Griffon Vultures.
If you think you’ve seen migration, nothing prepares you for the late-autumn “staging” in The Straits. This isn’t just a trickle of birds; it is a massive, coordinated push of thousands of juvenile Griffon Vultures, all converging at the continent’s edge.
Standing at the watchpoints, we watched as the sky literally filled with these soaring giants. They gather at such incredible density that you are looking up at literally metric tonnes of soaring wings overhead. These immense, swirling “kettles” hang in the air as they wait for the precise thermal conditions needed to bridge the gap to Africa. This youth dispersal is a high-stakes masterclass in survival and a spectacle you simply cannot witness anywhere else on earth. Seeing the sky heavy with the sheer volume of these majestic scavengers is, quite simply, one of the most underrated wonders of the natural world.
Our adventure began among the dramatic karst peaks and river valleys of the Serranía. In the high country of the Sierra de Grazalema and the surrounding limestone ridges, we tracked down the mountain specialties that thrive in this rugged terrain:
The Resident Giants: Alongside the dispersing juveniles, we watched the resident Griffon Vulture colonies. We also had incredible views of Golden Eagles patrolling the ridges.
Black Wheatears and Blue Rock Thrushes claiming the rocky outcrops.
Rock Buntings, Cirl Buntings, and Dartford Warblers busy among the mountain scrub.
Reaching the coast, we focused on the unique vulture dynamics that define The Straits.
The Rüppell’s Vulture: The ultimate! We successfully found this African wanderer among the amassing Griffon Vultures—a bird that is becoming a legendary part of our #FlywayBirding story.
The Rule-Breakers: Nature always keeps us on our toes; our list included a remarkably late European Honey Buzzard braving the late-season winds.
Coastal Specialists: we watched Slender-billed and Audouin’s Gulls and an array of Shorebirds.
As birders, we spend much of our time looking up—usually at the incredible soaring birds crossing The Straits of Gibraltar. But recently, we had the pleasure of sitting down (virtually!) with the fantastic team at BatAbility for their Talking Bat podcast series.
Don’t let the name fool you—while Neil and the team are the masters of all things chiroptera, they invited us on for a special “Talking Bird” episode to chat about the interconnected world of ecology, ethical travel, and the magic of migration.
It was a brilliant, relaxed conversation that gave us a chance to reflect on why we do what we do. If you’ve ever wondered about the “why” behind the Bustards, this is the episode for you. We delved into:
The Roots of Inglorious Bustards: How we transitioned from conservation roles to setting up our base here in Andalucia, Spain.
The Eco-Tourism Mission: Why we believe tourism must be a powerhouse for conservation, supporting local economies and protecting the very habitats we love to visit.
The Miracle of Migration: We shared our passion for the East Atlantic Flyway and the breathtaking spectacle of bird migration that defines our lives here in The Straits.
Giving Back to The Gambia: A deep dive into the conservation work we’re so proud of in West Africa and our partnership with the Flyway Birding Association.
What we loved most about this chat was the “wider world of ecology” focus. Whether it’s bats or birds, the challenges—and the joys—of protecting our natural world are the same. We talked about the importance of sustainable guiding and how every trip we run is designed to put nature first.
How to Listen
Whether you’re prepping for a trip with us or you’re stuck in the office dreaming of the Spanish sun, you can listen to the full interview at the link below:
This year’s Swift Weekender was insane! A relaxed opportunity to not only observe Swift migration as well as some of the rarest Swift species in Europe and the Western Palearctic, but also get up close to some of the breeding specialities of the Iberian Peninsula and connect with the flow of early autumn migration.
Day 1 – 25 July
We started fairly early and travelled to the edge of the Embalse de Barbate and into a private permit-only area, where we scanned through the various species on the edge of the reservoir. We were also amongst an absolute raptor-fest with Western Osprey, Booted and Short-toed Eagles, Black Kites and more passing right by us. However despite these glorious distractions, our focus was on Swifts and we spent time sifting through both Pallid and arriving Common Swifts hawking over the water. After some time we were elated to find not one but two of our very sought-after White-rumped Swifts!
This species is highly localised and scarce in the Western Palearctic, and a real treat for any visiting guests. Avoiding any disturbance to nesting areas, we are able to watch them hawking for insects and at this time of day low just over our heads! They are surely one of the most erratic fast flyers of all the swifts and they are awesome!
After our initial finding we waited, and again the WRS returned for a second foray overhead before departing to higher altitudes. At this point we decided it was time to head off for a celebratory fresquita!
From here we journeyed north to the Laguna de Medina, the largest lagoon in the province of Cádiz and the second largest in Andalucía. Here we sifted through the varied species of duck present – Red-crested and Common Pochards dominating but with Great-crested, Little and Black-necked Grebes floating among the gaps. Here we also got our first views of six White-headed Ducks – a star species for visiting birders to the Iberian Peninsula. However much as this species dazzled us with the males bright blue bill, striking white head and steamboat-like antics, the star was a milky-tea coloured warbler!
A really interesting and range restricted migrant of the Iduna genus, the Isabelline Warbler (or Western Olivaceous Warbler) is found breeding only in North Africa and the Iberian Peninsula, with most of the European breeding population within Southern Spain. We didn’t find just one but six of these trans-Saharan migrants.
Day 2 – 26 July
Often we have days where we are excited how it all comes together and this is one of those days! We have refined and planned it for years and it actually offers one of the best day´s birding anywhere in Europe, the Western Palearctic, if not the world! Timing and location is crucial to maximise the abundance of our most sought-after encounters!
So our day started pre-dawn with a drive to private farmland where Inglorious Bustards are exclusively permitted access. Here among the organic, extensive vineyards with a mosaic of fallows, differing crops, scrub alongside mature trees all dispersed among the vineyards, we can find the most enigmatic of species – the Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin! Here we were as the sun lifted above the horizon, surrounded by the beautiful song of this stunning farmland bird.
Here the organic, extensive production coupled with mixed habitats provides a life-line for this declining species. It is without doubt a testament to the low-impact, mixed, organic farming practiced here that we are surrounded by this magic! Tails lifting all around us as they fed in the first light and battled to re-establish the day´s boundaries between territories.
Quiet and respectful observations mean that the tail-lifters are often happy to approach and go about their business before the heat of the day kicks in and their activity dwindles. Then it was time to move on from here as we had yet another enthralling surprise encounter…..
We arrived to Chipiona harbour just as it was kicking off! Little Swifts were just leaving their roosts and feeding busily within the proximity of the colony, giving us some hair-parting examples of aerial acrobatics among Common and Pallid Swifts. Here with the backdrop of Spain´s tallest lighthouse we watched in awe as they giggled around us sometimes at shin height!
Here we also had time for an Inglorious Bustards special – that of second breakfast… Hobbit style! We devoured our coffee and freshly-squeezed orange juice and some of the best churros in Spain (if not the world!) as Little, Common and Pallid Swifts whizzed about us.
From here we moved the short distance to the Playa de Montijo – here perfect timing enabled us to walk out among the magic! Roosting Terns and Gulls gave us a smorgasbord of species to sift through and we were loving it! Even if I did get wet feet!
Here we sifted through over 70 Little, 40 Sandwich, 19 Black and 9 Common Terns, among them 73 Med Gulls with a handful of smart Slender-billed Gulls.
Another new location nearby was the Salinas de Bonanza. Here amongst Gull-billed Terns and Slender-billed Gulls with thousands of Greater Flamingoes we sifted through the various shorebirds and took our sustainable (award-winning!) picnic in our pop-up kitchen and dining area!
Our final stop of the day was among nearby agricultural pools. The first ones got us close-by superb looks at dapper White-headed Ducks but the second section of pools was mind-blowing! Here the Egretry was off the chain – a mix of nesting Glossy Ibis, Black-crowned Night Herons, Cattle and Little Egrets and Squacco Herons were not only audibly and visually jumping but the smell was pretty memorable too!
Today the strong levante had dropped giving us the perfect moment to get amongst the soaring bird migration.
Interpreting wind strength and direction is a vital element to get into the flow of migratory birds, and with a bewildering array of watchpoints at the visiting birder´s disposal, it can be a difficult choice. However due to our local knowledge and absolute passion for #FlywayBirding we were in the flow of migratory soaring birds!
3.058 Black Kites cruised out below us and above us and on to Africa as we watched them battle this tiny stretch of water that is such a huge challenge to their ongoing journey.
Groups of White Storks weren´t far behind, with one huge group of over 3,000 stretching out to link the two continents of Europe and Africa. We logged 4,114 White Storks making the crossing right over us! Soon the gateway was overflowing with over 15,000 Black Kites and more than 10,000 White Storks making the crossing and giving us our first big day of autumn migration 2025!
European Bee-eaters filled the nearby campo on their own journey across to Africa as we headed towards the local Vulture colony. Here we encountered an hulking adult Bonelli´s Eagle and the breeding pair of Egyptian Vultures.
Day 4 – 28 July
Today we took our boat trip out into The Straits where we encountered rafts of Scopoli´s Shearwaters and an Eleanora´s Falcon buzzed past the boat! We also found over 40 Wilson´s Storm Petrels adding more avian delights to this brilliant excursion! We also enjoyed sharing the waves with pods of Long-finned Pilot Whales and Bottlenose Dolphins.
From here we journeyed the short distance to Punta Camorro where we took our chilled out sustainable picnic as European Bee-eaters, a smart looking Tawny Pipit and more joined us!
From here we explored the once vast wetland of La Janda now sadly drained for intensive agriculture. It still has some fragments that make for very interesting birding – perhaps in the future this once amazing ornithological gold-mine can be returned to some version of its former glory benefiting biodiversity, the environment, water and the wider local community.
For now we still know that great species can be found here and we do just that, with groups of Collared Pratincoles giving us some great views. Other shorebirds are found with a single Little Stint and Ruff, 5 Little Ringed Plover, 4 Green Sandpiper and more. Having already been spoilt with close views and mesmerising swarms of raptors, our senses in that regard were not dimmed with Short-toed and Booted Eagles and both Marsh and Montagu´s Harriers. Two Gull-billed Terns cruised over the ruderal vegetation of the few available fallow areas.
Today we returned to one of the local Vulture colonies where once again we found one of the breeding Egyptian Vultures, Black Kite, Short-toed and Booted Eagles present with a singing Blue Rock Thrush and purring Turtle Dove.
From here we went to the Puente del Rio Barbate and sifted through the vast array of shorebirds. Eurasian Curlew and Whimbrels fed together, 7 Curlew Sandpipers were a highlight alongside dapper-looking Mediterranean Gulls.
After a quick stop for a fresquita, we headed up to the Pinos de la Breña. Here among the Stone Pines, Wild Olive and Cork Oak, we took a relaxed picnic in the cool shade of the trees, where a pair of Eurasian Hoopoes had their nest and Spotted Flycatchers flashed out over the glade returning to feed their recently-fledged young.
Then as the tide was now rising we headed for the Marismas de Barbate. Here once again we were amongst the shorebirds with Collared Pratincoles, more Curlew Sandpipers, Little Stint, a bunch of Ruff, Kentish Plover and more with Greater Flamingoes feeding in the deeper parts of water.
Our last encounters of the day were with the super-cool and rare Northern Bald Ibis on our way back to chill before dinner and MORE Birding!
After our delicious dinner, we travelled the short distance to the edge of La Janda where we waited for our next new addition to this tour´s burgeoning list. As a Black-crowned Night Heron lolloped over we were right on time for the next show! We heard the galloping horse like call …or more like the coconuts being clapped together in Monty Python´s Quest for the Holy Grail! It was the sound of the biggest Nightjar in the Western Palearctic – the Red-necked Nightjar! We heard and saw 4 of these hawking for moths and probably some of the mosquitos that had fed on us moments before – we were happy to feed them up so the Nightjars got a really nice meal!
Red-necked Nightjar – sound on 🔊
Day 6 – 30 July
Sadly it was time for us to say farewell to our Swiftlets and we hope to welcome you back soon!
Making our #Birding count the trip list is available from eBird here
In recent years, Coto Doñana Natural Park has attracted considerable press attention for the parlous state of its aquifer due to intensive soft fruit farming in the nearby area. But following a wet winter and large amounts of rain in recent days, the infamously parched wetlands were once more full of water and life, and we were super-excited to go explore!
Newly-flooded pastures hosted a joyful gathering of Red-crested Pochards, Ferruginous Ducks, Common Cranes, Storks both White and Black, Eurasian Spoonbills, Western Swamphens, Black-crowned Night Heron and Glossy Ibis. El Rocío´s famous Madre de las Marismas lagoon nurtured a wealth of wintering wildfowl, including Northern Shovelers, Northern Pintail and Eurasian Teal, while Green Sandpiper, Common Snipe and Black-Winged Stilts waded in the shallows.
On Doñana´s “salty” eastern side, a colony of Little Swifts delighted, Greater Flamingoes promenaded and we met with Caspian Terns, Slender-billed and Mediterranean Gulls, Endangered White-headed Ducks, Mediterranean Short-toed Lark, Little Stint, Bar-tailed Godwits, Common Redshank and Greenshank, Pied Avocet and more!
Soaring over all, Doñana´s impressive selection of raptors included Hen and Marsh Harriers, Lesser Kestrels, Griffon Vulture, Western Osprey and Black-Winged Kite as well as Little and Barn Owl and a roost of nine Short-eared Owls! And our encounters with local royalty – four Spanish Imperial Eagles, including the world´s oldest female – were outstanding!
With delicious locally-sourced and sustainably-produced food nourishing us throughout, and an extra-curricular sampling of El Rocío´s lively horse-based culture, it was a trip to remember!
Day 1 Thursday 23 January
Encounter with Royalty
Niki collected the Sevilla arrivals and we made the hour drive to our lovely Cortijo-style hotel on the outskirts of Matalascañas. After lunchtime bocadillos and fruit in the pretty tiled patio area, we headed out to get stuck straight in!
We headed to the village of Hinojos where we met our two guides – both called Jose Manuel! – from local Nature-watching company Doñana Nature. Their 4×4 jeeps and access permits would take us to very special private areas of the park.
The first of these was Coto del Rey private estate, where we immediately encountered resident royalty, finding two enormous Spanish Imperial Eagles perched side by side on a pylon! We were thrilled to find that one of them was an old friend – the female was the oldest Spanish Imperial in the world at 34 years old! No longer producing eggs of her own, last year she permitted the development of an unusual love triangle, where a younger female lays eggs in her nest, fertilized by her long-term partner, and she then uses her decades of experience to successfully rear the chicks. In 2024 the throuple managed to fledge two chicks in this way, a big achievement for this species!
Wetland wonderland!
Across the pastures we could see many Common Cranes feeding and a couple of Eurasian Hoopoes flitted up from the sandy ground. A Little Owl glowered at us from a stump and we had gorgeous views of a very showy Iberian Grey Shrike. Flocks of Eurasian Spoonbills flew over as Western Marsh Harriers quartered. We picked out a third perched Spanish Imperial Eagle, this young bird presumably the final member of the threesome! As we scanned across the vibrant marshes, it was clear that Jose Manuel the Elder was intensely emotional about seeing the vast marismas brought to life for the first time in over 20 years!
Meanwhile Simon had collected the remainder of the group and arrived safely in the area, also making a start on some brilliant local birding! Taking a look around the lagoons on the outskirts of El Rocío we picked up Black-winged Stilts, Greater Flamingoes, White Storks, Iberian Magpies, an endearing flock of Common Waxbills and hundreds of wintering wildfowl.
Team Sevilla and Team Málaga then convened at our hotel for our first dinner together! The hotel is very much after our own heart, having in place a laudable sustainability policy which has completely eliminated single use plastics from the entire hotel, economises on water and electricity use and sources all water from renewable sources. They had even laid on several extra vegetarian options for the delicious evening buffet-style dinner. WE LOVED it!
After a hearty hotel breakfast, we headed out to explore the birding on offer in the local area, beginning at the famous Madre de las Marismas lagoon on the outskirts of El Rocío village. The “Mother of the Marshes” was today nurturing a wealth of wintering wildfowl, including Northern Shovelers, Northern Pintail, Eurasian Teal, and huge flocks of Eurasian Coot. Greater Flamingoes and Eurasian Spoonbills waded, and Green Sandpiper, Common Snipe and Black-Winged Stilts fed in the shallows. Common Waxbills, White Wagtails, and many wintering Meadow Pipits browsed the shore.
We next headed further afield to explore the farmland areas to the east of the Natural Park, where the glorious rains had flooded large areas that had been dry for years! Stopping by one such area, we spotted our fourth Spanish Imperial Eagle of the trip perched nearby! Red-crested Pochards and Ferruginous Ducks bobbed about on an area that was until recently a road, and the sounds of whinnying Little Grebes and rejoicing Iberian Pond Frogs filled the air! Hundreds of Little, Great and Cattle Egrets were on show, and we surprised an early or overwintering Little Bittern. Two small Wild Boar ran from the ditch by the roadside, one galloping into the distance and the other swimming ably across the inundated farmland!
Miles and miles more of flooded grassland awaited us alongside the Guadiamar river. Seemingly not content with reclaiming the land, Western Swamphens, Black Storks and Great Egrets roved about on the road! We were privileged to encounter a roost of nine Short-eared Owls and spent a magical time observing them.
Simon and Niki conjured up a picnic lunch by the side of a wild scrubby area, while the group watched quartering Marsh and Hen Harriers, several newly-arrived Lesser Kestrels and a Barn Owl flew right past! which we later relocated for the most fabulous views (see photo). White Storks made a bill-clapping display from their nearby nest and we could see a haze of pink Greater Flamingoes in the distance. Driving on, we got great views of a Western Osprey perched on the telegraph wires.
The Jose Valverde Visitor Centre provided opportunity for a welcome coffee break, and from here we viewed Glossy Ibis, Pied Avocet, roosting Black-crowned Night Heron, Spanish Sparrows and searched for the elusive Penduline Tits we could hear pinging from the bulrushes.
For dinner tonight we headed to famous sandy streets of El Rocío, where things were heating up for the Candeleras de Triana pilgrimage festival. Our friends Sergio and Javi at Restaurante Toruño gave us a warm welcome and fed the group delicious warming traditional tomato-and-bread soup, a local chickpea and spinach dish, tuna steak for those that wished and a yummy flan pudding to finish off. As we wandered the streets back to our vans, we admired the horses and riders in their traditional finery that were filling the streets and enjoyed the sounds of flamenco and banter filling the air!
Day 3 Saturday 25 January
The Salty Side
Second breakfast 😊!
We made a good early start today and headed via Sevilla over to the eastern side of the Guadalquivir River, to explore the saltier side of Coto Doñana!
Finishing our drive at a small harbour town, we arrived at the perfect moment to catch the colony of Little Swifts as they awoke! They were emerging from their nests up in the eaves of the harbour buildings, and we loved watching them zipping around making their engaging “giggling” calls. We were able to keep watching them as we tucked into Second Breakfast like hungry Hobbits! Great coffee and a mountain of hot churros fuelled us up for our next spot!
On next to the expansive salt pans of Bonanza, where we were greeted by proudly promenading Greater Flamingoes! Among them, a great selection of shorebirds included Black-Winged Stilts, Little Stint, Bar-tailed Godwits, Common Redshank and Greenshank, Pied Avocet, Grey Plover, Sanderlings and hundreds of Dunlin. We enjoyed our picnic lunch right here, tucking into local olives, salads and sustainably-produced goat´s and sheep’s cheeses, while Caspian Terns, Slender-billed and Mediterranean Gulls and three Western Ospreys on show. By the tracks, we picked up Crested & Mediterranean Short-toed Larks, and a mass of wintering Crag Martins fed overhead.
After lunch we headed to nearby freshwater ponds – originally established to irrigate local small-scale veg production, they have flourished into natural treasure troves! Today was no exception, with Glossy Ibis, Black-Winged Stilts, Ferruginous Ducks and Eurasian Hoopoe among the gems on show. We were thrilled also to get great looks at two Endangered White-headed Duck.
Day 4 Sunday 26 January
Woodland Tranquility and Coastal Drama
Rain this morning brought a certain magic to the tranquil wet woodlands of Acebrón. Newly-returned House Martins filled the air and the surreal bright pink of a Eurasian Bullfinch stood out against the subdued woodland palette. European Serins jangled and Short-toed Treecreepers and Common Firecrests squeaked through the trees, and we could hear a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker nearby. Tiny Pixie Cup lichens tiptoed up the bark of the Cork Oaks. And we thought we spied a rare Iberian Crocodile lurking in a pool….
Heading on to our lunch spot at Acebuche Heath, our guests had time to peruse the excellent Visitor Centre and stock up on T shirts while Simon and Niki prepared picnic! In the end we had additional guests join us, as a gregarious flock of Iberian Magpies arrived to hoover up our leftovers! The photographers had a fantastic time snapping these cheeky yet elegant birds.
For the afternoon we headed to walk off some calories and blow off some cobwebs at the spectacular Cuesta de Maneli dune system. Among tall, well-established Mediterranean scrub we picked up Dartford and Sardinian Warblers. Earth Star fungus sprung from the damp sand. Barn Swallows were arriving in off the sea, and we picked up a surprise Common Kittiwake. Down on the vast empty beach, we felt like we had landed on an undiscovered shore as Atlantic waves smashed the desolate but beautiful coastline.
After some relax time at the hotel, we headed out for dinner at the delightful Restaurante La Plazita in town. Host Elisabeth helped us celebrate our last night in style by treating us to local and house specialities served tapas style, including pescado frito, fried aubergines with dark cane syrup, patatasalioli and with special home-made bravas sauce, and local favourite chickpea and spinach stew – delicious!
Day 5 Monday 27 January
Back to the Coto
Today after breakfast it was already time to exchange goodbye hugs with our earliest departers!
It was now the turn of the second group to head into the heart of the park with Doñana Nature, and chance of a second visit for some! And this time we got to go in a huge 4×4 bus! Today we focused on exploring the heaths of Coto del Rey. Here we enjoyed Iberian Grey Shrike, Thekla´s Larks, Corn Buntings and large flocks of Iberian Magpies. A flock of twelve Woodlarks and two Eurasian Hoopoes browsed the sandy soils. A Griffon Vulture soared overhead, with Common Ravens and a Red Kite, on the lookout for carrion. Common Cranes bugled softly from the grasslands. That same Little Owl persisted in glowering at us from its tree stump and we ended the trip as it had begun, with views of the exalted queen of the Spanish Imperial Eagles!
Farewell Team Doñana 2025, we loved sharing this snapshot of Doñana joyfully rejuvenated with you!
This tour was run in support of our Conservation Partners Proyecto Marambay, who specialize in restoration of traditional salt pans in the Bay of Cádiz to benefit coastal birds and cultural heritage.
