Tour report for Bird Migration and Cetaceans 9 – 14 April 2025 by Stuart Gillies
We met up with our migration enthusiasts who had travelled here from Northern Europe, plus three transatlantic vagrants from North America! All with the one common purpose – to witness the first leg of the biannual migration spectacle afforded by the unique conditions where the landmasses of Africa and Europe almost touch – The Straits of Gibraltar.
With our migration comrades assembled, we headed to our base for the week Huerta Grande, an eco-resort in a beautiful woodland setting sandwiched between the two major reserves of the area, the Alcornocales and Estrecho Natural Parks.
In the subsequent days our group explored the major habitats of this wonderful area including venturing out into the sea on a mini-pelagic in search of seabirds and cetaceans, the magical cork oak forest, marismas and salinas teeming with birdlife and home to the one of the largest Collared Pratincole colonies in Europe, all the way up to the mountainous refuge of a Griffon Vulture colony. All within easy reach in this ever-changing and always exciting southernmost tip of continental Europe.
Wednesday 9 April
After settling in to our accommodation followed by a picnic lunch featuring local, sustainable produce, it was time for a short orientation tour of our immediate surroundings.
This afternoon stroll yielded no less than 33 species including Griffon Vulture, Short-toed and Booted Eagle, our first Black Kite, European Bee-eaters, Crested Tit, Melodious Warbler, four recently arrived Western Bonelli’s Warblers – both singing and showing well enough to note all of the salient ID features for those new to this dainty leaf warbler – four Iberian Chiffchaff singing their distinctive song, a Sardinian Warbler, Common Firecrest and Short-toed Treecreeper vying for the ‘highest pitched song’ prize, at least half a dozen Common Nightingale justifying the name and belting out their motifs amongst the wall of noise chorus we were happy to be bombarded with!
A transient Pied Flycatcher, five Hawfinch, and two European Serin completed the highlights of this incredible hour of familiar birds admixed with the flavour of extreme Southern Europe.
Thursday 10 April
The weather in The Straits is very much a preoccupation due to the unique conditions where forecasts can be extremely sketchy to say the least. One of the great skills required by a wildlife guide in this area is a combination of meteorological knowledge, experience, alchemy, and divining the short-term future!
Very high rainfall and Atlantic storms had been battering the area and this day was set for wind and rain. Simon, with over 20 years of experience of guiding in the area knew exactly where to head in order to keep everyone dry for the day. No, the answer was not staying indoors! North and East towards Jerez de la Frontera and the Laguna de Medina.
Our first stop at La Peña added some wonderful passerines to the trip list with Thekla’s Larks, a very confiding Tawny Pipit, and the gorgeous beige and bandit-masked Western Black-eared Wheatear plus the ever-popular sight and sound of Bee-eaters hurrying past on migration plus two nominate flava Yellow Wagtails also with somewhere to be.
Angry-looking skies hastened our own push northwards and our next site Vega del Puente. From our elevated position overlooking the vast reservoir and with commanding views of the surrounding area we added Eurasian Crag Martin, European Red-rumped Swallow and Osprey to our burgeoning eBird list.
Lunchtime was spent out of the wind in a secluded woodland area still within the Alcornocales Natural Park where 70 European Bee-eaters restlessly sallied over our heads in a cacophony of their distinctive warbling calls. Western Bonelli’s Warbler and Common Nightingales provided some beautiful accompaniment.
Laguna de Medina is a place with a positive story to tell. Once referred to as the lake of blood due to carnage levels of hunting, the area is now a nature reserve for everyone to enjoy rather than a miserable place used only for the perverse enjoyment of a depraved minority.
Here can be found a much-coveted and iconic species, White-headed Duck. This frankly odd-looking waterbird undoubtedly cuts a unique niche in terms of European ducks. Almost cartoonish with a squat body, big head, and swollen-based blue bill, their displays are equally as bizarre with much bill-slapping and bubble-making!
Another showy duck – Red-crested Pochard – was appreciated as were two Black-necked Grebes in breeding finery with the golden sprig of head feathers setting off the demonic red eyes.
Common Nightingales and European Serin serenaded our departure as we left for base after another fantastic day.
Friday 11 April
A highlight of any trip to the region must be a visit to the Griffon Vulture colony at La Zarga near Bolonia. While watching these magnificent masters of the sky effortlessly soaring together, it is easy to imagine their ancestors witnessing millennia of human history unfold below their lofty perches. From Neanderthal people painting the vultures´ likeness in their caves to the booming trade hub of the Roman city of Baelo Claudia, vultures have bossed the airspace of The Straits.
Awe-inspiring as our view from the bottom of the sheer rock face was, we were still to be treated to an even more remarkable spectacle as eagle- (or should that be vulture-) eyed Simon found an incredibly rare visitor in the shape of a Rüppell’s Griffon Vulture! This endangered species normally resides in sub–Saharan Africa but a few have been noted in Spain in recent years caught up in the flow of Griffons returning after spending their formative years in Africa.
Rüppell’s Griffon is about 10% smaller than its close relative and the Spanish name provides a good description – Buitre Moteado, mottled vulture. The group really appreciated this bonus sighting and were soon able to pick it out as it soared among its bigger relatives. Another indelible experience logged.
La Zarga is home to a very good variety of birds and in addition to the Rüppell’s excitement we were able to enjoy two Egyptian Vultures, two Common Ravens, a Mediterranean Peregrine Falcon, Eurasian Crag Martin, Western Black-eared Wheatear, and Cirl Bunting as a worthy supporting cast!
Owls are always a treat to see and a short opportune stop allowed for some delightful time with two scowling Little Owls as they scoped out beetles from a roadside fence.
With winds easing slightly, the call was made to head south to La Peña as we would be better placed for any incoming migrants. This was indeed the case as the wind guru himself Simon had predicted correctly. Western Osprey, Booted Eagle, European Bee-eater, Woodchat Shrike, nominate flava Yellow Wagtail all moving through.
A post-picnic stroll afforded magnificent views of the various Woodchat Shrikes present and superb intimate interrogation of the finer points of Thekla’s Lark ID.
Stopping briefly at Punta Camorro in the now freshening levante wind we were able to watch Scopoli’s and Balearic Shearwaters perfectly adapted for these conditions doing mini albatross things, expertly scooting along on stiff wings. We marveled as a Marsh Harrier struggled to make landfall in seemingly improbable winds for soaring birds to make the crossing!
After this brief baptism in the teeth of the levante we reached the sanctuary of calm that is Huerta Grande where we ended the day to the songs of Short-toed Treecreeper, abundant Eurasian Blackcaps and Common Nightingales.
Saturday 12 April
We had already alluded to the unique and difficult to read conditions in The Straits. This day the forecast was ambiguous to say the least, with Atlantic storms coming from the south and the levante blowing from the Mediterranean. Where to go?
The best-looking option was to head West and to Barbate and so we did. Once a booming tuna fishing port, the past unsustainable nature of the fishery is plain to see in the town today. Efforts are being made to encourage both tourists and locals alike to enjoy the natural attributes of the area, the big draw for us being the salinas and marismas which provide a haven for a wide variety of species.
Among the first birds we encountered were Black-winged Stilts, aptly named with their impossibly long and delicate looking legs. Soon, the scurrying of busily feeding Kentish Plovers caught our eyes and a quick scan of exposed mud revealed a shorebird bonanza comprised of Grey Plover, Common Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Common Sandpiper, Common Redshank, Curlew Sandpiper, Sanderling, Dunlin, four diminutive Little Stint, and breathtakingly, over 200 Collared Pratincoles – that achingly beautiful in the air or on the ground shorebird/tern/swallow bird! Three Eurasian Stone-curlew completed the impressive shorebird list.
Yellow-legged Gulls dominate here but a close fly by Audouin’s Gull was a bonus and hopefully proved to act as a gateway species for any gull sceptics still on the fence when it comes to appreciating this fascinating family.
The tern extremes were demonstrated too, with four Little Tern and a single Caspian Tern hunting above feeding Greater Flamingos and a lone Eurasian Spoonbill. An awesome flock of 100 Glossy Ibis passed overhead enhancing the already marvellous spectacle.
Songbirds were high on the agenda here too with Greater Short-toed Lark, Western Yellow Wagtail of the local race iberiae, a migrating Tree Pipit calling, and Corn Bunting jangling constantly.
Winds! A window of opportunity opened and the bold call was made to head back towards Tarifa to exploit the improving conditions for large soaring birds to cross The Straits!
It cannot be overstated how much local knowledge and experience play in being able to position ourselves under the flow of migrating birds. It is very easy to see nothing of the epic spectacle if stationed even a kilometre either side of the optimum viewpoint.
Every ounce of faith in Simon is justified as we dash to Trafico just east of Tarifa. In a magical 3 hours we are treated to 13 Black Stork, 180 White Stork, 4 Western Osprey, 23 Egyptian Vulture, numerous Griffon Vulture, 17 Short-toed Eagle, 113 Booted Eagle, 1 stunning Bonelli’s Eagle, 4 Eurasian Sparrowhawk, 876 Black Kite, and 1 Atlas Long-legged (North African) Buzzard! Migration – FlywayBirding style.
As if this wasn’t enough, a diverting mix of 10 European Bee-eater, 2 Lesser Kestrel, Thekla’s Lark, Greater Short-toed Lark, Zitting Cisticola, Sand Martin, Sardinian Warbler, Common Nightingale, Corn and Cirl Bunting kept us thoroughly entertained during any quieter spells during the impressive stream of raptors and storks.
Sunday 13 April
Today we left dry land to explore the stretch of water separating Europe and Africa accommodating the group in two consecutive private trips in the capable hands of skipper Aurelio and marine biologist Ezekiel. We explored the Bahia de Algeciras and sailed into The Straits past Europa Point looking for cetaceans and seabirds.
Firstly, Common Dolphins delighted, bow-riding and breeching all around us when suddenly Ezekiel spotted something bigger. A Bottle-nosed Dolphin which had attached itself to the Common pod and been adopted as one of their own! This easily recognisable individual has been living with its Common family for 14 years!
Dolphins accompanied us for the majority of the trip but birdwatching wasn’t neglected. 2 Pallid Swift, Yellow-legged Gulls, 14 Sandwich Tern, 1 Scopoli’s Shearwater, 30 Great Cormorant, 1 very tired looking Booted Eagle, and Barn Swallows were noted.
The second sailing did just as well in the dolphin stakes with the Bottle-nosed again seen well. The bird list was augmented by a Common Sandpiper and 2 Common Terns with the migrating raptor seen being a Black Kite.
What a day we had on land too with the flow of migratory soaring Birds with our guests experiencing some real in-the-face #FlywayBirding
In just a few hours of observation we logged 1,481 Black Kites, 324 Booted Eagles, 126 Short-toed Eagles with Egyptian Vultures, Eurasian Sparrowhawks, Marsh and Montagu´s Harriers and Ospreys all joining the migratory party.
All the while noisy parties of European Bee-eaters, Pallid and Common Swift buzzed overhead and below are some of the amazing migratory scenes we found ourselves amongst.
Monday 14 April
The last day of the tour began with the familiar song of a Common Cuckoo at Huerta Grande before we headed to our first stop off of the day at Embalse del Celemín where the small occasional lake and adjacent picnic area boosted our day list with Common Sandpiper, Great Crested Grebe, Eurasian Spoonbill, Booted Eagle, Woodchat Shrike, Zitting Cisticola, European Red-rumped Swallow, Common Nightingale, and Corn Bunting.
This was but a prelude to our visit to the most species-rich area we would explore, Río Celemín, part of the once vast wetland of La Janda.
From the quiet swishing whip of Common Quail to the purring of a Turtle Dove, this area never disappoints! Common Moorhen chipped along the reed edge as three of their bulky, prodigiously-toed relative Western Swamphen high-stepped deliberately through the aquatic vegetation. A nearby field, full of puddles attracted 20 Common and 50 Little Ringed Plover, a Common Sandpiper, and four Dunlin. White Storks stalked the field and a flock of 8 Eurasian Spoonbills flew by in formation. Herons were present in the shape of a Little Egret, a non-confiding Squacco Heron, numerous Cattle Egret, a Great White Egret, and 3 Grey Heron. Raptors were represented by 14 Griffon Vulture, singles of Short-toed Eagle, Booted Eagle, and Marsh Harrier, 7 Black Kites and 2 Common Buzzards. Three Lesser Kestrels completed the raptor list.
An ever-popular Eurasian Hoopoe put in an appearance followed by the captivating sight and sound of 70 European Bee-eaters alternately hawking for insects and sitting for beautiful scope views showing off their rainbow-coloured glory. An Iberian Green Woodpecker was heard calling and a further 3 Woodchat Shrike neatly brings us into the passerines with the highlights being the aforementioned shrikes, 2 Common Raven, 3 Crested Lark, 2 Zitting Cisticola, 1 Melodious Warbler, 1 Common Reed Warbler, 3 European Red-rumped Swallow, 2 Cetti’s Warbler, 4 Sardinian Warbler, 1 Common Whitethroat, 2 Common Waxbill, 2 Eurasian Tree Sparrow, 2 Western Yellow Wagtail of the nominate form flava, 2 European Serin, and 2 Corn Bunting in a total of 55 species! Testament to the ornithological richness of this area.
The birding never stops! Even our lunch stop at Los Tornos was accompanied by Short-toed Eagle, Short-toed Treecreeper, Common Nightingale, and Corn Bunting before heading to the Canal Principal Este at La Janda where another Common Quail, Red-legged Partridge, Greater Short-toed and Calandra Larks, iberiae Western Yellow Wagtail, and Common Linnet further boosted our species count.
A fantastic day to be rounded off in a wonderful visit to the colony of Northern Bald Ibis at Barca de Vejer. An astounding experience to see one of the rarest birds in the world at such an improbable and accessible site is just as jaw-dropping on subsequent visits as the first and a fitting finale to our wonderful week together sharing the avian wonders of The Straits.
Tuesday 15 April
As our group dispersed on their onward migrations it is fitting to express enormous gratitude to our wonderful hosts at Huerta Grande who add so much to the overall experience. To Katrin and her team, Juan-lu, Toñi, Elena, and Antonio we say muchisimas gracias.
Lastly, thank you so much to our intrepid band of migration enthusiasts for making this such a joyful week of migration watching. ¡Muchisimas gracias y hasta pronto!
Making our #Birding count – the trip list is available via eBird: https://ebird.org/tripreport/352307
This trip was full carbon-balanced through the wonderful World Land Trust, who use proceeds to protect threatened forest habitats around the world. It was carried out in support of the work of conservation partners Fundacíon Migres.