Tour report for Ronda and The Straits 27 Oct–2 Nov 2024 by Niki Williamson
Whilst the spring migration is driven primarily by lust, the late autumn migration and post-breeding dispersal of the new avian hordes are driven by hunger and the search for sheltered climes – effectively trumping reproduction on Maslow´s Hierarchy of Needs!
Our Ronda and The Straits trip sits right on the cusp of two seasons, giving an uplifting opportunity to enjoy Andalucía as it journeys from late autumn into early winter. A less explored time of year, it is still right in amongst the avian movements of the area – which are both fascinating and spectacular.
It´s a time of great transience, as many breeders from higher altitudes and latitudes head downwards and southwards to find winter retreats. Mountain birds take refuge on lower slopes. We encounter the first groups of the 10,000 or so Common Cranes that will overwinter in Andalucia, arriving overhead in bedraggled V´s and announcing their own presence with soft bugling calls.
Migration just keeps giving!
Those that have bred here prepare for more lengthy migrations out of Europe altogether. For many, it will be their first time to make the treacherous survival journey to Africa, and for some it will be the only time. I´m referring to Griffon Vultures, of which Spain holds c.77% of the world´s breeding population, and for whose first-year birds the voyage to sub-Saharan Africa is an instinctive leap of faith, with no grown-ups to follow, to spend their formative years “finding themselves” in countries like The Gambia and Senegal.
This event is spectacular, and involves the movement of tens of thousands of one of Europe´s largest birds with a wingspan of up to 2.8m. Individuals who just a few weeks ago could not yet even fly build up in swirling groups around Tarifa and literally soar out across the sea – truly breath-taking!
We designed the tour to coincide with the peak of this dispersal, as well as taking in the last dash of the rest of the raptors migrating The Straits. Often this can give some of the best views of Booted and Short-toed Eagles, Egyptian Vultures, Black Kites and more, and can also be the time for unusual sightings and rarities.
Two bases one mission!
As well as two seasons, we combine two bases of mountain and coast bringing so much opportunity for varied birding, not to mention two of our favourite friendliest accommodation bases with some of the best seasonal sustainable local food you could imagine!
2024 was no exception. Our merry band of bird appreciators gathered at Málaga airport and we wasted no time in whisking them away to the nearest National Park! We had climbed 1000m and were enjoying a picnic amongst the spectacular limestone scenery of Parque Nacional Sierra de la Nieves within an hour.
This very first stop brought us a superb selection of mountain and high woodland birds!
In the stunted evergreen glades of Holm Oak, Crested Tit and Firecrest flitted while Eurasian Jay alarmed. A dapper endemic Iberian Grey Shrike perched up on the Hawthorns and Spanish Fir while Woodlark, Black Redstart, Rock and Cirl Bunting foraged around the boulder-strewn pastures and Dartford Warblers rasped from the scrub.
Overhead, Eurasian Crag Martin and our first Red-billed Chough calling, and stunning views of a Golden Eagle soaring amongst Griffon Vultures.
By the time we had reached Hotel Bandolero in the village of Júzcar, birding the precipitous mountain roads as we went, we had also added great sightings of Black Wheatear and tantalizing glimpses of Rock Petronia.
More and better views of this high-altitude assemblage of tough old birds were to follow, as we explored the surrounding beauteous landscape over the next couple of days, taking in the eerie moonscape and disconcerting rock pinnacles of nearby Los Riscos, the contrasting roaring grey rivers and tranquil azure pools of Cueva del Gato and the plunging crags and soaring Griffon Vulture colony of Montejaque Dam.
During our mountain adventures we also encountered Ring Ouzels, Hawfinch, lofty Iberian Ibex, the dusted blueberry shades of Blue Rock Thrush, dapper Black Wheatears and chough-ing great groups of everyone´s favourite exuberant red-billed corvid!
Our host David made sure we were cosy and welcome at Hotel Bandolero as we explored the quirky murals and winding streets of the blue-washed village of Júzcar. If our eyes were watering from exceptional birding then our mouths were certainly watering every evening as chef Iván treated us to some of his modern Spanish classics made from local ingredients, such as chestnut and mushroom potaje, (Simon´s favourite!) a truly wondrous fennel risotto, (Niki´s favourite!) and a stunning chocolate volcano dessert (everyone´s favourite!)
At the Montejaque Griffon Vulture colony we had already seen the restlessness in the ebony eyes of this year’s itinerant teenage Griffon Vultures, many of which were already well into their journey, having stopped off at the settlement from further north in Spain or France.
From mountains to coast – The Straits
Now it was time to follow them to The Straits and wish them on their way and we descended our second base, Huerta Grande Rural Eco-lodge outside the village of El Pelayo, on the coat-tails of Parque Natural Los Alcornocales.
Here the main Griffon Vulture colony is high up in the limestone and sandstone of the Sierra de la Plata. Normally hosting around a hundred resident pairs of Griffons Vultures, as well as Egyptian Vultures and Bonelli´s Eagle, we were thrilled during our visit to get a sighting of a stunning male Rüppell´s Vulture. Smaller, darker and glamorously spangled, this Critically Endangered African species is increasingly noted in the area as their numbers dwindle on that southern continent and they head north, attaching themselves to migrating Griffons to ease their solitude.
The numbers at the colony were visible augmented by tired-looking adolescents from elsewhere, provoking squabbling and irritation from the resident veteran birds. These juveniles’ antics would not be tolerated long – there´s only so much carrion to go around in this fiercely-defended territory.
So we picked our perfect weather and wind conditions to take up posts at the coast and cheer the youthful pioneers on their way to come of age in Africa.
In two thrilling migration watching sessions at two different watchpoints along the Tarifa coastline, we saw walnut-coloured whirls of intrepid young Griffon Vultures accumulating on shared thermal air currents, and witnessed the caramel mantles and cocoa primaries of over 400 voyagers disappear away from us, over 14km of sea and off into their unknown, to return with luck and a fair wind as adults in two or three years’ time – strong, fit, and ready to challenge for a spot in a colony.
Riding the same thermals was a delicious mixture of the season´s last Short-toed Eagles, Booted Eagles, White Storks, Eurasian Sparrowhawks, as well as Northern Goshawk and a wandering Spanish Imperial Eagle.
And still there were more habitats to explore in this wondrous part of Spain. Outside of mid-autumn migration in the first half of September, the area is often overlooked by birders, much to their loss.
Wetlands and Shorebirds
Wetlands both salty and sweet are teeming with birds on the move in late autumn. At the flooded freshwater fields of La Janda, Common Ringed Plover, Green Sandpiper, Common Greenshank and others had gathered on passage as well as arriving Northern Lapwing. Finding crunchy crayfish aplenty in the rich arable mud, hundreds of White Storks had decided to stay rather than chance the journey to Africa. The first of the inbound Common Cranes graced us with their elegance, while Eurasian Spoonbills, Great Egrets and Glossy Ibis also vied for attention.
Our floaty breeding Montagu´s Harriers had by now been replaced by stomping wintering Hen Harriers, and we counted over forty hunting Marsh Harriers on our beat.
Huge flocks of hundreds of Spanish Sparrow fed in the ripening grain and most, but not all of the Western and Iberian Yellow Wagtails had moved on, to be replaced by flocks of their White winter counterparts. The first of the Bluethroats lit up the ditches with its shrill song and the resident Corn Buntings jangled persistently over it all.
At the local marismas of Barbate, had we not been scuppered by the same torrential rain event that caused the tragic events in Valencia, we would no doubt have encountered a multitude of waders streaming south, with Little Stints and Curlew Sandpipers shining amongst the hordes of Sanderling, Dunlin, Common Ringed and Kentish Plover. And out to sea, both Balearic and Scopoli´s Shearwaters are streaming out to Atlantic wintering grounds, while Cory´s pour in and busy groups of Razorbills and Atlantic Puffins sneak a snack break in the sheltered Straits.
Urban Birding Straits Style
The excitement of the passerine post-breeding dispersal is also not to be underestimate! We made a beeline for the Parque Princess Sofia, an unassuming urban park with a secret – at night this dark square of miniature wilderness in the heart of the La Linea-Gibraltar-Algeciras conflagration must look like a haven of peace among the city lights to the passerines above.
Our visit yielded a host of recuperating migrants including Eurasian Hoopoe, Common Whitethroat, and almost a hundred Eurasian Blackcaps and Common Chiffchaffs. In some years this humble blob of green – now with areas managed for tired migrants – has attracted Little Bunting, Semi-collared Flycatcher, Olive-backed Pipit, Yellow-browed Warbler and more!
Vultures and MORE
Not to be outdone on the passerine stakes, our home-from-home at Huerta Grande allowed views of our resident woodland beauties. Morning-people could enjoy Hawfinch, Firecrest, Short-toed Treecreeper, Crested Tit, Spotted Flycatcher while enjoying an excellent breakfast coffee. And Night-people, after indulging in excellent three-course traditional Andalucian fair from chef Toñi, could enjoy the hooting of a Tawny Owl while Fiery Salamanders and Horned Toads crept rustling through the Halloween leaves like zomb-phibians…
Offshore our private boat trip yielded close up spectacles with Long-finned Pilot Whales, Common, Atlantic Striped and Bottle-nosed Dolphins along with encounters with two Sperm Whales!
It´s not just the Vulture Spectacle that´s waiting to be discovered in this Nature-lovers´ Autumn Paradise-come-Winter-Wonderland!
Making our #Birding count – the trip list is available via eBird: https://ebird.org/tripreport/287960
This trip was fully carbon-balanced through the wonderful World Land Trust, who use proceeds to protect threatened forest habitats around the world. It was carried out in support of the work of conservation partners Fundacíon Migres.
Find out more about this amazing ornithological wonder-world of mountains and coast here – your place is available for 2025 (and 2026!).